1940s Men’s Coats and Jacket Styles & History

1940s men’s outerwear was more than just warmth and rain protection. The cut, the colors, and the styles of men’s coats and jackets incorporated the world’s changes — especially new military uniform design. Simple, bold, and boxy was the overcoat style of the 1940s. ’40s jackets were simple, casual, and strong.

Advertisers continued to send the message that outerwear designs were durable, economical, and versatile. Less was more during WWII. Afterwards, men casted off the drab and serious and embraced the big, bold, colorful, and easy leisurewear trend set the tone for the next 10 years.

1943 Men’s Coats

Beginning with overcoats and ending with gab jackets, we will explore all the styles of men’s 1940s jackets and coats, their names, history, and trends.  While the resources I use focused on American’s men’s fashion, most of these styles apply to Western fashion around the world.

1940s Men’s Topcoats

A wool overcoat was an essential garment for the ‘40s man. During the war years, supplies were limited, making it very expensive to purchase a new coat. Most men continued to wear their 1930s overcoats for the duration of the war. That is, if they weren’t already serving in the Armed Forces.

1945 Topcoats: Twill, Wool Fleece, Gabardine

The new 1940s overcoats were straight and very boxy, coming down to the knee at a very slight angle. The shoulders were rounded and sometimes came in Raglan cuts. They had very wide notch or peak lapels and side-angled slit pockets. The buttons down the front were covered over with a long flap. It was a simple and minimal look — no fuss for the practical 40s.

To comply with war time restrictions, overcoats rose up to the mid-thigh. Materials were often recycled wool, wool blends, and layered cheap fabrics such as cotton twill. Some coats were designed to be reversible with a warm layer on one side and a rainproof layer on the other.

Overcoats were usually tan, plaid, tweed, or herringbone with plaid cotton flannel or rayon cotton blend linings. Common colors were medium blue, medium or dark grey, camel tan to light tan, medium brown, and dark navy blue. The colors were overall lighter than the previous decades, but remained neutral.

1943 Short Topcoats

After the war, when wool restrictions were lifted, a double-breasted version became popular again. They came in two fits. The first was like the topper: a wide, box fit with evenly spaced buttons and a belted back. The other was called the Hollywood style. Like the 1930s Guards coat it tapered into the waist, but had a slimmer skirt and a regulation length.

1945 Top Coats: Coacher, Double Breasted, and Hollywood Styles

Overcoats changed little for the remainder of the decade. The trench coat and classic jacket were beginning to replace the traditional topcoat men had known and loved for decades.

Trench Coats

The trench coat was another classic ’30s and ‘40s look, made especially popular by Humphrey Bogart in Casablanca (1942). It was the same shape as the overcoat – boxy and to the knee. It was worn without a belt and had side slit pockets, with a very small pointed collar and virtually no lapels.

1943 Men’s Trench Coats

A double-breasted version with a wide belt came into fashion in the 1940s. It had epaulets on the shoulders, wrist straps to keep the dampness out, and a D-ring belt loop that was originally used for carrying grenades.

Trench coats were made of waterproof cotton gabardine, almost always in tan, but shades of olive green, burgundy, and grey could be ordered from a tailor.

1942 Men’s Trench and Belted Raincoats

Trench-style overcoats combined the shaping and details of a rainproof trench coat (minus the epaulettes) with the wool fabrics of a topcoat. Herringbone in grey, green, or blue was an especially dashing pattern. The inside lining was even more interesting with light plaids and checks, quilted cotton, or piled wool.

Mouton-Collar Coats

In the late 1940s, a new style of trench coat was designed to match the new “bold style” of men’s fashion. The belted tan gabardine double-breasted coat now had an alpaca fur or quilted rayon lining with an almost shawl mouton-collar. The look was rich and tailored — a stark contrast from the practical early 40s.

1949 Mouton-Collar Rain Coat

The mouton-collar was also placed on corduroy surcoats, mackinaw wool coats, and thigh-length outdoor cloth coats.

Fingertip Coats

The fingertip coat became popular on college campuses in the late 1930s. The length extended down to the mid thigh, about 35 inches, saving on fabric and cost and making it a wartime essential. They had two slash pockets, a military collar, and top stitching around cuffs, pockets, and edges.

1945 Teen / College Men’s reversible Fingertip Length Coats

In the mainstream, men in the 1940s loved the reversible fingertip coats because they were two coats in one, yet another way to save costs! On one side was a brown, camel, or teal blue jacket in warm wool or heavy corduroy, while the inside was a solid or print of checks, herringbone, or plaid on a waterproof cotton twill or gabardine.   Sometimes, the inner side was seen on the lapels for the iconic two-tone California look.

Loafer Jacket

The fingertip coat wasn’t the shortest of the boxy topcoat styles. That goes to the loafer jacket, with a 29.5″ length. It resembled a sportscoat but with a straight bottom hem, 3-4 button front, large fold out collars, and a shirred back yoke. It was considered a casual coat, but looked more dressy than a short jacket.

They were often made of leather or suede on the chest and a contrasting fabric on the sleeves, lapels, and back. Solid colors and plain fabrics of cotton or corduroy were equally liked by mature men.

1945 Suede and Wool Check Loafer Coat

Leisure Coat

A coat that was similar to the loafer but slightly more dressy was the leisure coat. It was designed to be worn in place of a suit jacket with a pair of dress slacks. The body of the jacket was wool or gabardine fabric with contrasting sleeves, usually in a bold prints such as plaid, checks, or diamonds.  Some leisure coats incorporated Western details, yokes, and paneling. These rare coats are very collectable today.

This two tone combination was dubbed the “California Sportswear” style for its elevated but casual take on men’s fashion. More about men’s 1940s sport coats and suits. 

1949 gabardine and wool leisure coat

Mackinaw Coats

The traditional mackinaw coat had been around for at least the past 25 years, and remained largely unchanged. They were doubled breasted in heavy wool with big plaid patterns, two flap packets, an oversized collar, and a full slide belt. They were very warm, sporty, and timeless. Read about mackinaw coats in the 1920s and 1930s here.

Mackinaw Jacket Worn with Street Clothes

In the 1940s, some mackinaw coats were available without belts, with zippers instead of buttons, and in solid colors or two-tone patterns. However, the traditional style was preferred over all other new design attempts.

The pea coat looked very similar to a beltless mackinaw coat. Officially, the pea coat was a uniform of the US Navy reefer men. It was double breasted, navy blue Melton wool, with an ulster collar, anchor buttons, and two slit mid-chest pockets. They were plentiful as military surplus after the war, often bought up by older boys and teens who idolized their father’s role in WWII.

In contrast, the navy blue Melton wool Mackinaw jacket had a wider collar and two flap pockets in addition to the two slit chest “hand warmer” pockets. Both were 32 inches long.

Shirt-Jackets

Stepping down to very casual, at-home wear, were the plaid shirt-jackets (now called a shacket, shirt-jac, or jac-shirt). They had a boxy wide fit and a plain back, button-down or zip-up front, and a straight hem. Two double-button chest pockets, and optionally two round handwarmer pockets, adorned the front.

Big and bold plaid patterns became bigger and bolder as the decade moved towards the 1950s. Buffalo plaid in red, brown, or black were the newest patterns. Multicolor plaids of green, yellow, and blue were also common. Of course, plain colors were an option, as were lighter wool and corduroy fabrics. Shirt-jackets were usually worn untucked, but could also be tucked in to casual trousers.

1948 Shirt-Jackets (Notice the Angled Pocket Flaps)

The shirt-jacket had a few notable variations:

The Chopper had a double layer yoke on both the back and front, from the shoulders to the chest pockets (single button).

The Cruiser was inspired by Northwest Timber cruisers who needed extra heavy layered coats in visible patterns. The body and sleeve were two full layers of wool with knit inside cuffs. The back had two cruiser pockets that held tools or laid flat when not in use, and the front pockets buttoned down. The front also had the same yoke as the Chopper style.

1949 Regular, Chopper, and Cruiser Shirt-Jackets

Blouse-Jackets

A blouse jacket (later renamed the bomber style jacket) had been a staple in men’s workwear and casual weekend wardrobe from the 1920s onward. It featured a rib-knit bottom hem, zip or button front, two slit hand pockets, and a fold out collar. It could be heavy wool in winter or light gabardine or cotton poplin in spring.

It was an older, out of date style until after the war, when designers were using military jackets as inspiration for new looks.

The classic leather B-15 flight jackets had the blouse style, lined in fur or shearling, with an optional fur collar. They became widely popular in the late 1940s, not only in leather but also in sturdy wool or corduroy.

1949 Blouse Style Reversible Jackets and B-15 Fur Collar Jacket

If you search for bomber jacket today, most of them with have a small knit collar instead of the fold out collar. Knit collar blouse-jackets were also an option in the 1940s, although not as common.

They did, however, gain an association with school sport teams and as warm up gym clothes. Knit collar, waistband, and cuffs with raglan sleeves, a zip up front, and two slash pockets could be made in any two color combinations. They were made in all wool, satin (or rayon-cotton blend), and leather. A name or signature was usually embroidered on the chest. “Letters” were saved for cardigan sweaters.

Battle Jacket

Another military inspired jacket became a fashionable work uniform and occasional casual jacket: the battle jacket (or Ike jacket). It was roomy in the shoulders, chest, and torso, but ended snugly at the waist with a tab button belt. Two large pleated pockets on the chest were a good place to hold tools, notes, or cigarettes.

Learn about other jacket styles worn with workwear here.

Gab Jackets

In the 1930s, the most popular short jacket style was the Cossack. The name Cossack remained in the 1940s until it was renamed “gab jacket,” after the very poplar gabardine fabric. Unlike the ’30s version, the Cossack did not have a side waist or wrist buckles. The front was smooth with a zipper, fold out collar, and two slash pockets.

The Gabardine jacket  could be made in a any kind of fabric, but the iconic version was made of a rayon and cotton twill blend that had a soft shine to it. The smooth material made the design very plain, with angled slit pockets on the sides, a zipper front, and an optional chest pocket with a flap, slit, or zipper. Colors included khaki, tan, maroon, teal blue, brown, grey, olive, and red.

1944 Gab Jackets

The jacket hung straight down to the waist and was fitted only with a half belt at the back, occasionally with two zdjustable side belts or gathers. The jacket collar had soft wide points worn loose and open for the most casual comfort.

Most Gab jackets had a lining on the inside in a contrasting color or unique pattern (checks were common). Many were made to be reversible. Winter styles were lined in fur pile, fleece, or wool.

Some gab jacket variations included a wider lapel collar, button front, and flap front pockets. Non-gabardine fabrics could be heavy Mackinaw wool in winter, leather, or combinations of wool and leather. The poplin twill cotton in Army green or khaki was similar to the gabardine, but without the shine.  There was a style for every man’s preference.

Leather Jackets

Leather jackets experienced a boom in the 1930s. Everyone in the 1930s had had least one suede jacket, and in the 1940s everyone had a smooth leather jacket (cow, goat, or horse hide). The styles of the 1930s were repeated in addition to new military inspired jackets with more pockets, epaulets, and padded shoulders.

The aviator style was the most prevalent throughout the 1940s, especially in luggage tan brown. Black was the other option. Large notched collar, a narrow waistband, multi zippered pockets, and a warm lining were the key details.

De-regulated flight jackets were quickly snatched up by civilians in the post war years. They were A-2, G-1, B-3, B-6, B-7, B-10 and B-15 style jackets, among others.

The Cossack style continued on from the 1930s in a more simple, understand form.

The Surcoat was one of the newest styles. It was a longer length hip coat with a center full belt and 2 to 4 flap pockets.

1940s Coats Today

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