Skirt and blouse (waist) separates continued to be very popular in the post-Victorian Edwardian era. Worn as both semi-dressy and casual attire, the skirt was a versatile piece to have in one’s wardrobe. For the most part, separate skirts, followed the same shapes as dress skirts and fabrics for day wear. Wool and silk for fall and winter, lighter cotton and linen for spring and summer. Plain colors as well as classic patterns of plaid, checks, and occasionally stripes provided variety.
Edwardian skirts shapes transitioned from narrow to wide, to narrow, to wide again in a span of 20 years. Let’s explore these transitions in more detail.
1900 Skirts – The Trumpet or Tulip Skirts
At the start of the century the very full skirt of the 1890s had given way to the narrow Trumpet skirt with a flared hem. The trumpet skirt fit close around the hip and down to the knee where it then flared out from the shin down in 5-7 gores. It was flat in the front with a train in the back for ease of walking. The hem experimented with narrow pleats to add even more fullness.
The tulip skirt was another name for skirts of this decade, but were less extreme. The Tulip had the same smooth over the hip curve with a gradual flare that began at the thigh and flowed down to a fuller hemline.
Walking skirts, often had box pleats or side gathers, to add more volume around the hip, for comfort and movability. The lower classes, working classes, and country women preferred the relaxed tulip and walking skirts over the fussy Trumpet. Real skirts never looked as extreme as illustrations suggest.
1904 – Gored and Circular Skirts
The “fit and flare” styling of the first few years faded into the looser gored skirts for the rest of the 1900s. This was the era of the Gibson girl style.
Gores of 7-11 (or more, or less) were the most common for dressy or walking enables. The gores were narrow at the waist and expanded to the floor creating a very full yet remarkably light skirt. The addition of pleats on the lower half added weight and movement.
In 1905 the circular skirt, cut all in one piece, was the fullest of the skirts at both the waist and hem.
For most of the 1900s and into the 1910s, the full skirt narrowed again around the waist and hip with a gradual wide hem. Having a full /wide hip was made possible by hip pads, bum rolls, and ruffled petticoats, for those women not naturally padded.
Jumper Skirt/Pinafore Dress
By 1905, the Jumper or Pinafore, worn over a blouse (waist) made it’s debut. Was it a skirt or a dress? I say it is a skirt but history would call them Jumper waist dresses. Initially two straps, like men’s suspenders or braces, connected the high waisted princess skirt from front to back.
As the years progressed more coverage was added to the straps making them Apron-like by 1908. They came back again during WW1 with both narrow straps, V necks, scoop neck, and apron affects.
1909 – The Hobble Skirts
In 1908 designer Poiret introduced a narrow tube or column shaped skirt with a “hobble garter” around the shins. The Hobble garter never took off but the Hobble skirt name remained.
Both the gored skirt, circular skirt and hobble skirt styles were sold next to each other in shops and catalogs in the 1910s. For women who choose the hobble skirt, kick pleats hidden in seams and inverted pleat at the back, made it easier to walk and climb stairs. Pleats on the outside became visible and highly decorated with buttons, wrapped layers, soutache trim, and stitched lines.
To aid in the column shape effect, skirt waist bands grew higher and higher, to the ribs in some evening ensembles. The bands too became very narrow and then non-existent around 1914.
1913 – Draped Skirts
One brief trend for both hobble skirts and gored skirts was the use of overlayers. Short or long overskirts topped underskirts one or two times. The layered or tiered effect added volume without adding bulk to the hemline from 1913-1915 (earlier in eveningwear.)
1915 – WW1 A-line Skirts
WW1 interrupted fashion’s march to the grand and impractical and returned it back to the days of the bigger skirt but this time with a shorter hemline. Instead of a skirt’s fullness achieved by many yards or gored fabric, two A frame pieces were joined at the seams, narrow at the waist and full at the hem. The A-line skirt with its 3-4 inch shorter hem saved a considerable amount of cash for fabric.
Excessive trim was spared too and instead oversized pockets and wide waistbands miniaturized women into doll-like young girls. The width of the skirt gradually narrowed to a simple and carefree fit by the time the war ended, continuing into the early 1920s.
Experiments in large patterns such as plaid, checks, and vertical stripes as well as bold new colors (pink, orange, green) are my favorite contributions to this fun time period.
Edwardian skirts have made various reappearance throughout the 21st century. Today they are back in style as part of the CottageCore Aesthetic. Full skirts but with post- WW1 hemlines seems to be the style leaders now. You can blend your own modern day Edwardian inspired style with skirts, blouses, aprons and boots.
Edwardian Skirts- Make or Buy
Before choosing an Edwardian skirt to make or buy you would be advised to know your character well- What year, age, location, and social status – in order to choose the correct shape.
Shop for ready-made or made-to-order Edwardian skirts such as these: