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Vintage Dancer | 1900s Fashion | Fashion in 1918 – Women and Men During WWI

Fashion in 1918 – Women and Men During WWI

Edwardian Fashion 1900-1910s

9 Jul 2019

1918 was the last year of the first World War. With it began a change from wartime austerity to freedom in dress and fit and color. Both women’s and men’s 1918 fashion were at a pivoting point, lasting until 1922 when the Roaring Twenties changed things again. For women, fashion was looser, with shorter hemlines and widths that were full but required only one light petticoat. Sleeves were long but narrow, with wide collars and sashes, big pockets, and contrasting buttons. For men, the super skinny Jazz suit was designed for young men returning to post WWI civilian life in good physical shape. Colors for both women and men were still drab and conservative in Britain, but gaining more color in Paris (France) and America. Blue, green, burgundy, and brown made up winter stock while white, light blue, pink, and lavender cheered up spirits in spring and summer.

The following is from my collection of 1918 fashion catalogs and found photographs. It is a visual guide to the fashion year 1918, mostly in America and Canada, with a bit of history to set the context.

1918 Ladies Fashion – Day Dresses

“Wide at the hips and narrow at the ankles,” said Vogue in January 1917. The new Barrel line created the illusion of fullness, but lacked the layers of the previous years. Clothing was draped loosely around the torso with big folds, drapes, and gathers around the skirt sides. Oversized collars, belts/sashes, pockets, and embroidered or lace panels exaggerated the size. The waistline sat just above the natural waist, dropping down from the empire waist of 1910-1914. Sleeves were long, even in summer, where sheer sleeves were incorporated.

At home, house dresses were small cotton percale stripes, solid chambray, and gingham checks. For visiting, shopping, traveling, or other daytime pursuits, women’s dresses were made up in rich fabrics — taffeta, velvet, silk, crepe, and corduroy. Large collars framed the shoulders and provided a place to add some decoration. Overall, women’s dresses were simple, not fussy, and practical for all kinds of activities, from morning to night. Only the wealthy could afford dresses for all occasions. Most women had only 2 or 3 dresses to choose from. Shop day dresses.

1818 house dresses made of chambray, gingham check, and percale cotton stripes
1818 house dresses made of chambray, gingham check, and percale cotton stripes
1818 house and day dresses in solid colors (one in plaid.) Several have wrap tops with shawl collars.
1818 house and day dresses in solid colors (one in plaid.) Several have wrap tops with shawl collars.
1818 winter day dresses
1818 winter day dresses with embroidery

1818 Velveteen and corduroy winter dresses womens fashion
1818 Velveteen and corduroy winter dresses
Mr. Selfridge dresses costumes 1919
1918 Silk Dresses- Worn for day or afternoon. Notice the high waistline but with a large waistband. The length has also shortered to an easier walking length (and getting in and out of cars and buses)
1918 fashion women spring silk dresses
1918 spring silk dresses

1918 dresses, World War 1
1918 day dresses- less full, still modest
Portrait of W. H. Harrington family, 1918 black african american
Portrait of W. H. Harrington family, 1918
Portrait of Soldier, William Jackson, M.s.s. and wife, 1918 black women and officer
Portrait of Soldier, William Jackson, M.s.s. and wife, 1918

February 1918 spring fashions in brighter colors
February 1918 French spring fashions in brighter colors
July 1918 new fashions in summer dresses
July 1918 French new fashions in summer dresses
1918 August fashion - casual or dressy
1918 August French fashion – casual or dressy

1918 Tea Dresses to Ball Gowns

There were few events the average woman needed to dress up for. Typically, a fancy day dress was all that was needed for evening events, but the daytime tea party was an exception. The all white lace and chiffon tea dress was a summertime necessity. Ballgowns were similarly light and airy chiffon tea length party dresses with ribbon bows or clusters of flowers placed at the waist. The sheerness and lightness were inspired by Ballerinas. Shop evening dresses.

1918 evening dress formal gown guide

1914-1918 evening dress guide. More

Wedding gowns, if a bride could afford one, were modeled after fancy afternoon dresses, not tea dresses or ball gowns. They often combined a heavy fabric base with sheer light draping on top. Antique heirloom lace accented the floor length veils as the “something old.” Wedding dresses were white or close to white. Less affluent brides may have worn a light colored dress or ivory flannel suit. Shop wedding dresses.

1918 Lace tea dress
1918 Lace tea dress
1917-1918 Party dress in the center
1917-1918 Party dress in the center
1918 Evening dress
1918 Evening dress

Silk dresses and white wedding dress 1918
Silk dresses and white wedding dress 1918
June bride, 1918 wedding dress Edwardian ww1
June bride, 1918

1918 Skirts, Blouses and Sweaters

The use of separates instead of one-piece dresses increased significantly in 1918.  Skirts were simple shapes with a mid-calf tea-length. Details such as white side buttons, large pockets, and wide gathered waistbands matched those of dresses. The skirt sat high on the waist in which a blouse or “shirtwaist” was tucked into and billowed out slightly. Blouses were very pretty and embellished with embroidery, pintucks, covered buttons, and large contrast collars. They could be fancy or casual with most leaning towards the later. The Middy blouse was the sportiest design with a sailor collar and necktie worn over the skirt, sometimes with a matching belt or sash. Shop blouses and skirts.

Knitwear in winter was continuing to climb out of “only practical” to fashionable attire for women’s casual winter clothes. Homemade knit cardigan sweaters hung down low around the hips with a tie scarf-sash or button belt to emphasize the waist. Many featured white or contrasting cuffs and collars, which helped add some cheer to long winters. They were often knitted with matching hats, mittens, and scarves.

1918 house blouses made of durable cotton, wool
1918 house blouses made of durable cotton, wool
1918 light blouses
1918 spring blouses

1918 spring blouses
1918 Middy Blouses (robes up top)
Middy Blouses (robes up top)
Edwardian blouses and skirts Mr Selfridge 1919
1918 Skirts and blouses

1918 winter skirts
1918 winter skirts
1918 knit sweaters with belts womens ladies clothing fashion
1918 knit sweaters with belts
1918 knit sweaters with belts women ladies
1918 knit sweaters with belts

1918 Women’s Suits

While sweaters were for casual attire or layering for warmth, a two-piece suit was practical for street wear. A matching skirt and coat were sold together in fabric and weights to match the season. Many suits were adapted to women’s service uniforms. Made of wool, they were extremely durable but dull. In luxury fabrics such as velvet, they could be as pretty as dresses. The checkered suit became trendy, breaking up the monotony of solid dark suits.

1918 fur trim winter suits
1918 fur trim winter suits
1918 winter suits women
1918 winter suits
1918 walking, traveling suits
1918 walking, traveling suits

1918 sport suits, walking suits
1918 sport suits, walking suits
Princesse de Polignac, née Winnaretta Singer (1918) suit plaid womens fashion
Princesse de Polignac, née Winnaretta Singer
1918 fashion women's suits
1918 fashion

1918 Coats

When a dress was worn, a long overcoat was necessary for winter. In the coldest climates, an all fur single or double-breasted coat was sold with a very large hand muff. Less cold areas only required a wool coat with an optional fur stole to drape across the shoulders. Spring coats were lighter and brighter with removable fur collars. Plaid and check coats were welcome casual options.

1918 fur stoles, shawls and muffs
1918 fur stoles, shawls and muffs

1918 wool coats for women fashion
1918 wool coats


1918 Shoes

Boots, boots, and more boots. Most women wore boots when leaving the house. Plain brown or black lace-up boots were wardrobe essentials, but the new spat top two-tone boot was very fashionable. Brown and grey, black and brown, or black and white/ivory were visible under the shorter hemlines. Side buttoning boots added even more variety as well as heights that topped the calf or just a bit over the ankle. For rain and snow, rubber boots and slip on shoes were worn instead.

At home or in springtime, women could wear simple heels, multi-strap pumps, or short Oxfords. Heel eight ranged from a low 1-inch to a moderate 2.5 inches. In the evening, a satin pump often matched the ball gown. Shop boots and shoes.

1918 boots and pumps heels shoes for women
1918 boots and pumps
1918 Women's boots shoes
1918 Women’s boots
1918 shoes oxford heels walking pumps ladies
1918 oxfords and pumps

1918 rubber boots and shoes
1918 rubber boots and shoes
1918 women's and girls shoes and boots
1918 women’s and girls shoes and boots

1918 Ladies’ Hats

From 1915 onward, the trend for small hats with vertical trim replaced the giant pictures hats on the 1910s. Tricorne and bicorn hats added dimension. Smaller picture hats, some with transparent brims, created lovely summer hats. Flat brim sailor hats were worn in summer and winter. Their simple shapes and lack of decoration made them perfect with wool suits.  Feathers were minimal, preferring instead the manipulation of fabric to sculpt the hat and decorate it with ribbons and bows.

In winter, casual and close-fitting hat such as the tam or floppy beret made of velvet kept heads warm. Hats with turned down brims began to take the shape of the cloche hat.  Shop hats.

1918 hats
1918 fall winter hats
1918 hats
1918 winter hats
1918 hats
1918 hats

1918 hats
1918 hats
1918 hats and tams women
Close fitting hats and tams
May 1918 picture hat
May 1918 picture hat

1918 spring hats
1918 spring hats
1917 summer hats
1917 winter hats
1917 spring hats
1917 spring hats

1918 Underwear, Lingerie

A good foundation was as important as ever. For most women, that meant owning a longline corset that fit from under the bust to over the hip. The loose style of clothing in 1918 made it possible for some small figured women to go without a corset, at least at home. Corsets were worn over a chemise. Some women opted for the new brassiere either instead or in addition to a corset. It had a chemise or vest type top with a short length that tightened under the bust. They were not enhancers so much as supporters for the full chested. In Edwardian times, big busts were in, but they could not jiggle.

Attached to corsets were garters that held up stockings. Cotton lisle or cashmere black stockings were what every woman wore. Silk stockings were made available in a rainbow of colors and were worn with evening attire and summer tea dresses.

Petticoats were what gave skirts their fullness. They were brightly colored and patterned — a woman’s secret beneath otherwise dull outerwear.

For sleepwear, women had the choice of traditional white nightgowns trimmed in lace or the new Asian pant and top pajama set.

1918 corset, slip
1918 corset, slip
1918 front lace corsets
1918 front lace corsets
1918 corset for plus sizes
1918 corset for plus sizes

1918 bra / brassiere lingerie
1918 bra / brassiere
1818 bra / corset cover and sanitary belts
1818 bra / corset cover and sanitary belts
1918 underwear: corset covers, bras, slip
1918 underwear: corset covers, bras, slip

1918 long underwear
1918 long underwear
1918 petticoats lingerie
1918 petticoats
1918 stockings hosiery
1918 stockings

1918 Robes for women nightgowns pajamas sleepwear
1918 nightgown, nightcaps, and pajamas
1918 Robes for women nightgowns pajamas sleepwear
1918 Robes

1918 Accessories and Misc

Jewelry – Filigree drop necklaces with cameos, locket necklaces, oval filigree brooches,  flower and bird shape pins, and watch chatelettes. Wrist watches were worn by some younger women. Shop jewelry. 

Hair combs and bobby pins held back the sides of some hairstyles. A long hair comb fit in the top of a chignon or bun on long hair. Shop hair accessories. 

Purses- learn more here.

Gloves- learn the history here.

Beauty – Beauty potions and lotions were plentiful, makeup was worn but not talked about.

1918 Cameo Necklaces
1918 Cameo Necklaces
1918 necklaces and watches jewelry for women
1918 necklaces and watches
1918 brooches and chatelain
1918 brooches and chatelain

1918 jewelry bracelets necklaces brooch pin fob
1918 misc jewelry
1918 hair combs, bobby pins
1918 hair combs, bobby pins
1918 neck pieces dicky dickies fichue
1918 neck pieces

1918 purses and handbags
1918 purses and handbags
1918 gloves
1918 gloves
1918 striped swim dress with sash, black stockings and turban wrap
1918 striped swim dress with sash, black stockings and turban wrap

Claire Anderson and Rose Carter,1918, stripe swimsuits (Right is knit)
Claire Anderson and Rose Carter,1918, stripe swimsuits (Right is knit)
1918 overalls/coveralls for women farmers factory uniform
1918 overalls/coveralls
1918 overalls for women farming land army ww1
1918 overalls for women

Swimsuits were loose tunic dresses with attached bloomers. The new all knit swimsuit was just coming into style on the beaches in Paris. Most women were required to wear black stockings to retain modesty. A matching wrap or swim cap and lace up canvas boots finished the bathing costume.

Women who took the place of men at war often found themselves in heavy labor jobs such as farming or factory work. Overalls or coveralls were made for women with full legs and a tight ankle cuff.

1918 Men’s Fashion

I wrote quite a bit already about men’s 1910-1919 fashion here, including casual and workwear.

1918 men's slim suits with hats and caps
1918 men’s slim suits with hats and caps
1918- mens rah rah suits on the lower right
1918- mens rah rah suits on the lower right
1918 suit for all sizes. Norfolk suit on the right.
1918 suit for all sizes. Norfolk suit on the right.

1918 mens suiting Boys and men's pant, fabric swatches
Boys and men’s pant, fabric swatches
1918 new, colorful suits for young men
1918 new, colorful suits for young men with a wider jacket
1918 new, colorful suits for young men
1918 new, colorful suits for young men

1918 Banner tailoring men's new suit fabrics
1918 Banner tailoring men’s new suit fabrics

 

1918 Dress Shirts, Ties and Sweaters

1918 men's striped dress shirts to be worn with detachable collars
1918 men’s striped dress shirts to be worn with detachable collars
1918 men's shirts and collars
1918 men’s shirts and collars
1918 men's ties
1918 men’s ties

1918 men's work shirts
1918 men’s work shirts
1918 men's cardigans
1918 men’s shawl collar cardigans
1918 men's cardigan sweaters
1918 men’s cardigan sweaters

1918 Men’s Coats & Jackets

1918 mens fur coats
1918 mens fur coats
1918 men's Ulster coats
1918 Ulster coats
1918 mens fashion coats overcoats wool
1918 coats

1918 trench coat
1918 trench coat
1918 men's Mackinaw jackets
1918 Mackinaw jackets
1918 Mackinaw jackets men casual winter fashion
1918 Mackinaw jackets

1918 sheepskin lined jackets (blanket cloth also a common lining)
1918 sheepskin lined jackets (blanket cloth also a common lining)
1918 men's work clothing -vest and jackets
1918 men’s work clothing -vest and jackets

1918 Boots and Shoes

Shop men’s boots and shoes.

1918 men's dress boots and shoes
1918 men’s dress boots and shoes
1918 boys and mens boots
1918 mens boots
1918 men's sports shoes, boots and slippers
1918 sports shoes, boots and slippers

1918 Rubber boots and shoes for men and women
1918 Rubber boots and shoes for men and women
1918 dress boots
1918 work boots
1918 work boots and socks
1918 heavy work boots and socks

1918 gaiters or spats boot tops
1918 gaiters/spats

1918 Men’s Hats

Shop men’s hats.

1918 mens derby hat
1918 mens derby hat
Edwardian mens hat 1918 soft felt hat- almost a fedora
1918 soft felt hat- almost a fedora
1918 fedora hat
1918 fedora hat
1918 golf cap with ear flaps
1918 golf cap with ear flaps

1918 men's homburg and fedora hats
1918 homburg and fedora hats
1918 mens casual or work hats
casual or work hats
Men's 1918 wool, tweed and Frieze cap (R)
1918 wool, tweed and Frieze cap (R)

1918 Men’s Accessories etc

History of men’s gloves

History of men’s jewelry

1918 mens leather gloves
1918 men’s leather gloves
1918 mens jewelry - shirt links, tie clips
1918 men’s jewelry – shirt and cuff links, tie clips, scarf pins
1918 men's suspenders
1918 men’s suspenders

1918 mens long underwear
1918 men’s long underwear
1918 mens walking canes
1918 canes
1918 Mens neck ties
1918 Mens neck ties

 

 Resources

1918 Clothing as worn in the Wonder Woman movie

1919 Clothing as worn in Mr. Selfridge

Edwardian era fabrics and colors– Fabric swatches and catalog scans

Edwardian era sewing patterns – repro and inspired patterns from 1900 to 1919

Edwardian era dresses – Need an 1918 costume? Also, look in 1920s day dresses for some options.

Great War Fashion by Lucy Adlington

1918 Sears catalog- see the entire Sears catalog from fall and winter 1918

Women’s Fashion During WW1 – Article

The World and Fashion in 1918 – Fashion historian Jonathon Wolford’s informative summary

War Time Fashion 5 part series about women’s clothing during WWI

Need more help? If you are looking for something not pictured here, just ask!

debbie
We are Debbie and Oscar, your guides to dressing up like decades past. We are here to help you find clothing online and learn about vintage fashions as worn by everyday people, just like you. Need help with your outfit? Ask us anytime.
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