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Vintage Dancer | 1930s Fashion History | 1930s Men’s Hat Styles and Fashion History

1930s Men’s Hat Styles and Fashion History

1930s Fashion History· Mens Fashions History

3 Jul 2012
1930s Men's hat Styles. Learn more and shop at VintageDancer.com

1930s Men’s hat Styles

The golden age of Hollywood immortalized the polished, good looks of a well dressed man. The hat was not just an accessory — it made the man who he was. Gangster or hero, ladies’ man or comedian, 1930s men’s hats had a style for everyone.

Formal attire required the silk top hat, while the Homburg or Fedora has worn by most business men. The round bowler (or derby) continued to be worn by men, yet diminished in popularity by the end of the decade.  For casual days or working classes, the cap, both wide 8 panel and slim ivy caps, were the ideal choice.

Which 1930s hat style fits you? Take a look at the most common men’s hat styles during the decade.

Article Outline

  • 1930s Fedora or Trilby
  • 1930s Homburg Hat
  • 1930s Bowler or Derby Hat
  • 1930s Ivy Caps
  • 1930s Mens Porkpie Hat?
  • 1930s Walking Hat
  • 1930s Straw Boater or Skimmer Hat
  • More Men’s 30s Hats
  • Buying 1930s Inspired Hats:

1930s Fedora or Trilby

1938 classic men's fedora hat

1938 classic fedora

One of the most popular hats for men in the 1930s was the fur felt hat known as a Trilby or Fedora. The fedora is nearly identical, with the Trilby having a slightly shorter crown. These hats are worn in Hollywood movies by both the smart and handsome detectives and the rough and dangerous gangsters.  Indiana Jones wears one too. Good or bad, a few details make 1930s Fedora and Trilby hats different from their successors in the 1940s, 1950s, and 1960s:

1933 Fedorasand Homburgs

1933 Fedoras and Homburgs

  • Popular colors: dark brown, tan, grey, black, olive green, medium blue.
  • Tall crown.
  • Made of fur felt.
  • Featured a deep crease down the center top of the hat that angled toward the back of the head.
  • Front pinch or crown sides were indented.
  • The narrow brim was turned up all the way around or on the sides only.
  • A wide Petersham band wrapped the hat.
  • A flat Petersham bow was placed on one side of the hat band.
  • Matching Petersham ribbon bound the hat brim.
  • Sometimes they were worn tilted to one side.

Most felt hats remained nameless in the 1930s. There were many varieties with small adjustments in crown height and shaping.  Most men would purchase hats from a haberdasher, where the hats were shaped to suit the customer’s face.

1930s mens in felt hats

1930s men in felt hats

1930s men's hats, 1938

1938 men’s felt hats

Advertiser

1938 snap brim fedora, a sportier men's hat

1938 snap brim “Playboy” fedora and straw fedora (Right)

1930s Homburg Hat

1930s mens hat fedora and homburg 1933

1933 Homburg on the right

The hat most gangsters preferred was the Homburg. A slightly more formal hat than the fedora, its popularity was revived by The Godfather movie, resulting in it being nicknamed “The Godfather Hat.” 1930s Homburg hats featured:

  • Fur felt construction.
  • Tall crown with center crease.
  • Wide brim in the first half of the 30’s and narrower in the second half.
  • Curled brim with matching Petersham ribbon and band in the same color as the hat. A few versions had lighter color trim with a dark band.
  • Most popularly made in grey, followed by black.
1930s homburg hat

Homburg Hat worn in The Godfather

Advertiser

Fashion advisors suggested Homburg for the full faced gentlemen: “A Homburg, because its weight will help to balance his large physic. The crown at the base should be as big around as his own facial circumference, and instead of being folded to a pointed line at the top, it should be blunted, to help square the circle. This type of hat will, by its nature, A Homburg, with a blunted crown and a fair-sized width will help the full face and jaw have a brim of sufficient width to give balance to Bill’s face. Bill ought to tilt his hat a bit; if it is worn at an angle it will help to neutralize facial rotundity. Put him in a hat like this, worn with a certain dash.” Men Too Wear Clothes, 1939,  Dorothy Stote
1930s men's hat, the Homburg

1938 Homburg hat

 

1930s Bowler or Derby Hat

1930s mens hats the derby or bowler hat 1935

1935 derby hats

A carry-over from the past four decades, the classic Bowler Hat — also called a Derby — was just as popular as ever in the 1930s. The traditional hard top felt was replaced by softer, more breathable felt in the ’30s. Other details of 1930s bowler include:

  • Most popular in black.
  • Tall and round crown.
  • Narrow curled brim often curled higher on the sides.
  • Petersham ribbon binding on brim.
  • Matching black Petersham ribbon on crown with a flat side bow.
1930s derby hat

Patrick Macnee sporting a 1930’s Bowler/Derby Hat

1930s Ivy Caps

Wool Ivy Cap

1930s mens hats, the cap 1935

1935 man in cap

Another carryover from decades past is the casual cap, called an Ivy or driving cap today. The 1920s style newsboy cap with an 8/4 panel design was still worn in the 1930s, but eventually gave way to a more sleek and fitted Ivy style. Some other details are:

  • Colors: Brown and green tweeds, plaids, and herringbone patterns. Solid colors were less common.
  • Almost always made of wool, even in summer.
  • Worn flat on the head or off to one side.
  • Flat Ivy style with a triangle shape from ear to the base of the head.
  • Modern Ivy caps don’t have the triangle shape (pictured right).
  • Another style had a peaked cap design that tilted to one side.
1938 caps, wide fit 8 panels

1938 caps, wide fit 8 panels

1931 herringbone cap
1931 herringbone cap
1933 men's caps, hats
1933 caps

1930s Mens Porkpie Hat?

Men's Biltmore Fur Felt Porkpie - The Porkpie

I put a question mark after Porkpie hat because the 1930s style hat was similar to the 1940s Porkpiem, but not called by any specific name. It was a little different:

  • Colors: Black, browns.
  • Made of fur felt.
  • Oval flat top with deep crease around the oval.
  • Short crown.
  • Wide, straight brim. 1940s Porkpies had curled brims.
  • Thin leather band matching the color of the hat.
  • Worn at an angle.

1930s Walking Hat

1930s mens hats

Walking Hats aka Sport Hats

Another nameless style hat of the 1930s is often called a walking hat, walker hat, tweed hat, sport hat, or bucket hat today. It was a colorful, casual, sporty style that also had a cousin made for men’s work uniforms. This style of hat came back in the 1960s, making little distinction between the two decades. These hats had:

  • Tweed herringbone plaid, and check patterns.
  • Turned down wide brim (’60s hat had a slightly narrower brim).
  • Unstructured crown, rounded, usually no creasing.
  • Thin self-fabric band and flat bow.

1930s Straw Boater or Skimmer Hat

The last hat to carry over from the 1920s was the straw boater. A nice summer time hat, this was the last decade of its popularity. Lighter straw hats, such as the toyo, entered the picture in the late 1930s, yet the straw boater remained a classic well into the 1950s.

1937 men's straw hats by Stetson

1937 straw hats by Stetson

 

Maurice Chavelier wearing a Boater Hat

  • Made of hard woven straw.
  • Shallow crown and flat top.
  • Very wide striped silk band with flat double bow in sport team colors. Sometimes, the band was pleated horizontally.
  • Wide brim (Skimmer had a slightly narrower brim).
  • Worn for summer and sporting events.
  • Worn straight or tilted to the side.
1938 straw boater on the right, straw optimo toyo on the left

1938 straw boater on the right, straw Optimo toyo on the left

The original light straw hat was the Optimo Panama. It featured a rolled crease along the crown with a snap brim shaped like a fedora or round brim Panama. They were imported from Ecuador, not Panama, and were more expensive and fragile than the heavy straw boater.

1938 panama hats

1938 Optimo Panama hat (Right)

More Men’s 30s Hats

The above is not a complete list of men’s hats, only the most common. Some other styles were western hats like the Campaigner, Dakota, and Carlsbad. There were hats for work such as the shop cap, utility hat and cadet cap (police hat). There were also hats for sport, such as the safari hunters’ Trooper or Pith helmet.  In rainy weather there were waterproof rain hats, and in winter there were fur lined hats with ear flaps.

Read about 1930s Men’s Workwear, Everyday Clothing

1935 mens western hats: carlsbad, dakota campaigner
1935 mens western hats: carlsbad, dakota campaigner
1930s cadet uniform hat
1930s cadet uniform hat
1938 Men's Trooper / Pith hat
1938 Trooper / Pith hat

Buying 1930s Inspired Hats:

30s style fedora hat for men

30s style fedora

Lucky for us, most of these styles of hats can be purchased today. Granted, many don’t have all of the details vintage 1930s hats do, but the overall shape and colors are present. One minor difference is that you won’t find Petersham ribbon on modern hats. Instead, you will always see grosgrain ribbon used. Don’t know the difference? Read here. The overall look is the same, but it is the one little detail I miss the most.

You can find my handpicked selection of the best 1930s inspired hats for men here. Or read about other men’s 1930s fashions, 1920s men’s hats, and 1940’s men’s hats.

1930s Men’s Hat Styles and Fashion History Jaxon Striped Band Skimmer  AT vintagedancer.com
Amazon
Jaxon Striped Band Skimmer
1930s Men’s Hat Styles and Fashion History Wilton Fedora $66.00 AT vintagedancer.com
BollmanHatCo
$66.00
Wilton Fedora
1930s Men’s Hat Styles and Fashion History 1930s Bollman Collection Trilby $100.00 AT vintagedancer.com
BollmanHatCo
$100.00
1930s Bollman Collection Trilby
1930s Men’s Hat Styles and Fashion History BOTVELA Mens 8 Piece Wool Blend Newsboy Flat Cap Herringbone Tweed Hat  AT vintagedancer.com
Amazon
BOTVELA Mens 8 Piece Wool Blend Newsboy Flat Cap Herringbone Tweed Hat
1930s Men’s Hat Styles and Fashion History High Quality Crushable Hand Made Gents Indiana 100% Wool Felt Fedora Trilby Hat With Wide Band £25.99 AT vintagedancer.com
AmazonUK
£25.99
High Quality Crushable Hand Made Gents Indiana 100% Wool Felt Fedora Trilby Hat With Wide Band
1930s Men’s Hat Styles and Fashion History Wonderful Fashion Mens Classic Herringbone Tweed Wool Blend Newsboy Ivy Hat (Large/X-Large Charcoal)  AT vintagedancer.com
Amazon
Wonderful Fashion Mens Classic Herringbone Tweed Wool Blend Newsboy Ivy Hat (Large/X-Large Charcoal)
1930s Men’s Hat Styles and Fashion History Stetson Mens Panama  AT vintagedancer.com
Amazon
Stetson Mens Panama
1930s Men’s Hat Styles and Fashion History Big Boss Homburg - Exclusive $39.99 AT vintagedancer.com
Hatscom
$39.99
Big Boss Homburg - Exclusive
1930s Men’s Hat Styles and Fashion History Belfry John Bull Theater-Quality Men’s Wool Felt Top Hat in Gray or Black  AT vintagedancer.com
Amazon
Belfry John Bull Theater-Quality Men’s Wool Felt Top Hat in Gray or Black
1930s Men’s Hat Styles and Fashion History Frederick Fedora $60.00 AT vintagedancer.com
Hatscom
$60.00
Frederick Fedora
1930s Men’s Hat Styles and Fashion History Steed Derby Hat - Exclusive $39.99 AT vintagedancer.com
BollmanHatCo
$39.99
Steed Derby Hat - Exclusive
1930s Men’s Hat Styles and Fashion History Top Hat Collapsible  AT vintagedancer.com
Amazon
Top Hat Collapsible
1930s Men’s Hat Styles and Fashion History PEAKY BLINDERS 8 Piece Newsboy Style Flat Cap -Tweed Wool Fabric Variations £30.77 AT vintagedancer.com
AmazonUK
£30.77
PEAKY BLINDERS 8 Piece Newsboy Style Flat Cap -Tweed Wool Fabric Variations
1930s Men’s Hat Styles and Fashion History Jaxon & James Houndstooth Sherlock Holmes Deerstalker Hat - Brown £25.95 AT vintagedancer.com
AmazonUK
£25.95
Jaxon & James Houndstooth Sherlock Holmes Deerstalker Hat - Brown
1930s Men’s Hat Styles and Fashion History Wide Brim Fedora | The CARIBOU | Caribou Grey Fur Felt Round Crown Wide Brim Hat Men Women | Western Hats $200.54 AT vintagedancer.com
Etsy
$200.54
Wide Brim Fedora | The CARIBOU | Caribou Grey Fur Felt Round Crown Wide Brim Hat Men Women | Western Hats
1930s Men’s Hat Styles and Fashion History Sterkowski Warm Wool Blend Petersham Fiddler Cap  AT vintagedancer.com
Amazon
Sterkowski Warm Wool Blend Petersham Fiddler Cap
1930s Men’s Hat Styles and Fashion History Fisherman Cap Mariner Caps for Men and Women Wool Blend Fiddler Hat Classic Newsboy Visor Beret Paperboy Gatsby Hats  AT vintagedancer.com
Amazon
Fisherman Cap Mariner Caps for Men and Women Wool Blend Fiddler Hat Classic Newsboy Visor Beret Paperboy Gatsby Hats
1930s Men’s Hat Styles and Fashion History HOLMES Genuine Scottish Harris Tweed Pure Wool Deerstalker Sherlock Cap Hunting Trapper Deer Hunter 6 Panels Earflap Plaid Tartan Hat GRAY $70.00 AT vintagedancer.com
Etsy
$70.00
HOLMES Genuine Scottish Harris Tweed Pure Wool Deerstalker Sherlock Cap Hunting Trapper Deer Hunter 6 Panels Earflap Plaid Tartan Hat GRAY
1930s Men’s Hat Styles and Fashion History Belfry Gangster 100% Wool Stain-Resistant Crushable Dress Fedora in 4 Colors  AT vintagedancer.com
Amazon
Belfry Gangster 100% Wool Stain-Resistant Crushable Dress Fedora in 4 Colors
1930s Men’s Hat Styles and Fashion History Evergreen Handmade Lodon Boater Hat $64.77 AT vintagedancer.com
Etsy
$64.77
Evergreen Handmade Lodon Boater Hat
1930s Men’s Hat Styles and Fashion History Frederick Fedora $60.00 AT vintagedancer.com
Hatscom
$60.00
Frederick Fedora
1930s Men’s Hat Styles and Fashion History Brown linen sailor cap with leather visor brown linen summer hat man and woman brown linen hat nautical linen cap brown summer linen hat $95.72 AT vintagedancer.com
Etsy
$95.72
Brown linen sailor cap with leather visor brown linen summer hat man and woman brown linen hat nautical linen cap brown summer linen hat
1930s Men’s Hat Styles and Fashion History 1880s Bollman Collection Topper $100.00 AT vintagedancer.com
Hatscom
$100.00
1880s Bollman Collection Topper
1930s Men’s Hat Styles and Fashion History Casa Blanca Optimo Panama Straw Dress Hat  AT vintagedancer.com
Amazon
Casa Blanca Optimo Panama Straw Dress Hat
1930s Men’s Hat Styles and Fashion History Blixen Limited Edition Fedora - AshS $73.50 AT vintagedancer.com
BollmanHatCo
$73.50
Blixen Limited Edition Fedora - AshS
1930s Men’s Hat Styles and Fashion History Original Panama Hat - White Classic Fedora - Black Band - Toquilla Straw - Handwoven in Ecuador by Ecua-Andino  AT vintagedancer.com
Amazon
Original Panama Hat - White Classic Fedora - Black Band - Toquilla Straw - Handwoven in Ecuador by Ecua-Andino
1930s Men’s Hat Styles and Fashion History BOTVELA Mens 8 Piece Wool Blend Newsboy Flat Cap Herringbone Pattern in Classic 5 Colors  AT vintagedancer.com
Amazon
BOTVELA Mens 8 Piece Wool Blend Newsboy Flat Cap Herringbone Pattern in Classic 5 Colors
1930s Men’s Hat Styles and Fashion History Belfry Wool Felt Derby Bowler Hat in Black or Gray  AT vintagedancer.com
Amazon
Belfry Wool Felt Derby Bowler Hat in Black or Gray
1930s Men’s Hat Styles and Fashion History VIGO Corduroy Cotton Newsboy 8 Panels Cap Spring Newsboy Paperboy Vintage Retro Resistance Liberte Stage Rock Applejack Hooligan Hat GREEN $48.00 AT vintagedancer.com
Etsy
$48.00
VIGO Corduroy Cotton Newsboy 8 Panels Cap Spring Newsboy Paperboy Vintage Retro Resistance Liberte Stage Rock Applejack Hooligan Hat GREEN
1930s Men’s Hat Styles and Fashion History Clayton Western Hat $128.00 AT vintagedancer.com
BollmanHatCo
$128.00
Clayton Western Hat

 

debbie
We are Debbie and Oscar, your guides to dressing up like decades past. We are here to help you find clothing online and learn about vintage fashions as worn by everyday people, just like you. Need help with your outfit? Ask us anytime.
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