Mixing separates was an especially exciting idea in the 50s. With an explosion of new styles, synthetic materials and affordable prices women bought up 1950s tops and bottoms in record numbers. It was advised to purchase several shirts in the same style so that a woman always had coordinating outfits. In the 1940s blouses were almost always white or ivory but in the 50s color was in style. They either matched the bottoms or added a bright splash of color against a neutral pant or skirt. Feminine ruffled and lace blouses in the early years were replaced by man-tailored button down shirts that accented a woman’s waist and gave her an overall more casual look.
1950s Shirts, Tops, Blouse
Shirts, blouses, tops, whatever you want to call them were worn with skirts, pants, and shorts. They were fitted to the waist but not tight. Sleeves came in long, short, cap sleeves, or sleeveless. The puffy sleeve of the 1940s blouse went out of fashion for a less fussy straight fitting sleeve, sometimes with a narrow cuff by the mid 1950s. Bows were a popular decoration as well as frilly lace and narrow pintuck pleating in the early years. Buttons were small and usually plain white or had a pearl finish on fancier styles.
While the 1940s borrowed elements from men’s military uniforms for women’s suits and dresses, the 1950s borrowed men’s dress shirts for their own tops. At first teens literally borrowed Dad’s old shirts to wear as a cover up while washing the car or digging in the garden. They made them more fashionable by tying the shirt tails around their waists and opening up a few top buttons.
Menswear designers took notice of this trend and started to design men’s tailored shirts in women’s sizes. Popular colors were pink (of course!), teal, red, baby blue, black, and white in solid or gingham checks, small prints, and polka dots. Patterns were very popular, especially in the summer. In the late 50s there was a trend for making matching couples shirts. These were mostly worn by western wearing, square dancing, couples.
Among the tourist or tropical look, kitschy designs of palm trees, beach cruisers, and sandals were worn by everyone who traveled or dreamed of traveling to sunny California. Western bandanna prints also gave a nod to the California ranch lifestyle. The Santa Fe look made Navajo blouses and Mexican Huaraches (sandals) part of the ethnic is hip fad.
Tailored shirts had one big drawback in the 1950s. Ironing! Starching! Cleaning! They required a lot of work to keep perfectly pressed and crisp as paper. To be wrinkled was mortifying! When nylon appeared in bright fun colors and new synthetics like quick drying Dacron and Orlon promised easier maintenance and less wrinkles, women bought them up in armfuls. It didn’t matter that these new synthetics didn’t breath well or last as long as natural fibers. Cotton shirts were now the “old” or “poor person” thing to wear. Only new crisp synthetics were fashionable.
To help keep blouses tucked in smoothly wide elastic stays or small buttons buttoned to the inside of pants/skirts. It was a constant battle keeping blouses tucked in and an utter embarsement when they popped out.
1950s Blouse Collars
The variety of 1950s tailored tops was identified by the style of the shirt collar. Here are some of the common styles:
Peter Pan collar- Small round collars perfect for layering under a sweater. They flipped out over the sweater and layered on top. Small and dainty, they were a softer alternative to the point collar. Also called Ivy League collars they were often white with a contrasting body color. Many times collars were sold separately and stitched into tops and sweaters and then tossed out once they looked worn. They must have taken history notes from the teens and 20s when men’s collars were sold detachable for the same reason.
Detached or attached collars came in pique cotton (practical) and angora fur (long rabbit fur strands) that were soft and warm in winter. Some were accented with pearls and beads for a little more richness. A more youthful look had two little pompoms attached to the cords that tied in the front. The very wealthy could afford mink fur collars. They attached to warm sweaters and wool overcoats. So chic!
Classic collars– Pointed collars fastened to a small V neckline. They were often in white, but pastels, plaids, checks and thin stripes were common, too. They were the mostly tailored or menswear looking 1950s shirt.
The Portrait collar was an oversized point collar that peeled out to the side into a small V. It framed faces nicely and gave a regal, sophisticated look.
Boat necks- A fancier French name was Bateau. They were large oval necklines popular in knits that could be pulled overhead. Collars were attached to them but never stayed put very well. The “Sabrina” Bateau had two bows on either shoulder. It was made popular by Audrey Hepburn whose short-statured and simple gamin look appeared best in the style (hiding her skinny collarbone.)
Cowl collars were a boat-shaped with gathers draped around the neck and shoulders.They were a winter favorited in wool jersey or other soft medium height fabric.
Peasant top– Bohemian chic tops with gathered necklines, puffy sleeves and folk embroidery made the peasant top unique. They were common in the 1940s, too. %0s versions took on Mexcian riveria or Italian seaside style with trims of rick rack, pom poms, embroidery and Aztec art influences.
Party blouses- Not all tops were for casual wear. Formal sheer chiffon, light silk or satin, and embroidered eyelet were just a few materials made into party blouses. The blouse style could be tailored or peasant with exaggerated necklines, collars and sleeves. Paired with a black pencil skirt or velvet swing skirt, the blouse was ready for an elegant cocktail party.
1950s Summer Tops
Just like men’s shirts, women’s tops buttoned up the center. They were conservative, never opening enough to show any cleavage. They were worn tucked into pants and skirts, too, so no chance a mid-drift would show. The exception was the tie front, sleeveless top, that came out in summer. They were not worn tucked in, but they were always worn over high waist bottoms. A little bit of a mid drift was acceptable as long as it was a few inches over the belly button and below the ribs. Anything lower or higher was immoral. The over the belly button height of skirts, pants and shorts meant tops were quite short compared to today’s longer styles. Keep this in mind when wearing vintage tops with modern bottoms.
If there was one brand, one style of 50s blouse it was the Ship ‘n Shore. “The blouses typified the fifties sporty look- the finely pointed collar turned up to compliment an Italian haircut, maybe even with a button open at the neck. The working class dream was a closet filled with Ship ‘n Shore tops, all freshly starched and pressed. Every blouse could be worn with black skirt and capris. Add white shorts in the summer for the sleeveless models. Simple and predictable.”- What We Wore
Great care had to be taken with Ship ‘ n Shore blouses. They needed frequent ironing and starching. Many women kept them in the refrigerator so they would be damp and ready for a hot iron in the morning. Dan River was another popular brand that advertiser their broadcloth cotton shirts (usually plaid) could be hung up to dry- no ironing needed.
With a lack of air conditioning available, women had to dress to keep cool in summer. Sleeveless blouses with large armholes, halternecks, and deep scoop neck pullover tops were ideal summer tops.
Halter blouses were another summer ‘50s top. These often came in loud floral prints or checks in bold colors. They could have two thick straps that tied or slid behind the neck with a zipper down the back. Some, like the one on the left, had very low backs. Modest in front, immodest in back was acceptable.
Another summer top was the spaghetti strap top. The thickness of the straps varied year to year. Naturally, women had to wear a strapless bra or merry window underneath.
The 1950s version of a men’s Hawaiian shirt is the women’s Tea Timer shirt. It is traditionally made of silk, sleeveless or cap-sleeved with a Mandarin collar. They come in Hawaiian or tropical themed prints with 5 wooden or coconut buttons, side slits, and pockets on the front. They could be worn buttoned up as a shirt, or open as a casual overshirt. They were usually worn with Capri pants or skirt as a summer outfit. You can still find some great vintage Tea Timer shirts on etsy.com
1950s Knit Tops
Tailored blouses were not the only common style of top. The short sleeve snug fitting pullover knit top was a cousin of the sweater. New materials reduced the bulk of previous generations of sweaters as well as made them shrink proof. Thin knit tops could have a traditional tailored point or peter pan collars but were more often seen in high crew necks, roll necks, shawl collars and boat necks. Sometimes the V neck versions with point or shawl collars were called polo shirts.
The summer knit top were usually plain colors, not patterns. Some did feature knit in designs or textures as alternatives to the smooth finish on most knit shirts. Sleeve lengths were short, mid-arm lengths or longer Dolman sleeves.
The bottom of the knit top had a wide waist band. They could be worn tucked into skirts and pants or worn over them. Tucked in was more sleek looking while out was more casual.
One popular trend was to wear a short chiffon scarf, rolled and tied, to the left around the neck. These colorful neck scarves were almost always worn with a tight knit top. The pop of color was yet another way of accessorizing an outfit.
Even in winter, knit tops were usually worn alone, not over another blouse. This helped reduce bulk and keep the wasp waist effect popular in 1950s fashion.
Learn about 1950s winter sweaters.
1950s Style Tops
1950s reproduction or new vintage inspired 1950s tops tend to favor a few youthful styles such as the hater top, the peasant top, the peter pan collar, kit tops and the spaghetti strap tops like these: