1940s Skirt History: A-Line Classics to Summer Dirndl Skirts

Skirts have always had a special place in fashion history as both a high and low fashion item. Due to fabric rationing during the war, the 1940s created limited wardrobes for women. The 1940s skirt became not just a casual clothing item, but one that all other wardrobe elements revolved around. They were the foundation item of every look a 1940s woman wore in daily life.

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WWII 1940s Skirts

Simple A-Line Skirt of the Early 1940s

1940s skirts were simple styles. War rationing and restrictions in 1941-44 put a ban on the frills and ruffles popular on 1930s skirts. To save on fabric, hemlines rose to just below the knee.

Other WW2 restrictions were that hems could be no more than 2 inches wide.  Thin belts may have had to stay in place without belt loops, too, and pockets were not allowed. I am not sure a modern woman today could survive without pockets!

1940s skirt fabrics were generally wool and rayon blends for both summer and winter. Wool flannel, tweed, corduroy and crepe were common in winter. Rayon taffeta, sharkskin and gabardine were good year round. In summer cotton poplin or percale were the lightest fabrics.

1944 red and purple skirts

Skirt colors in the early 1940s were drab blues, grey, green, and brown. See 1940s fashion colors and fabrics here.

Although the width was limited to a 78 inch sweep, skirts generally were made with much less fabric. The silhouette was a boxy A-line. Placed at the natural waist, it hung smooth over the hips with a slight flare at the hem. These skirts were wide enough to move in, but never very full or very tight.

Kick pleats were added to the back of some tighter skirts to make movement easier. While pleats were not banned in the early years, they certainly weren’t popular until the end of the war.

Once pleats took off they made up the bulk of 1940s skirts. There were box plates, gored pleats, and knife pleats.

The most popular print for 1940s pleated skirts was plaid or tartan.  Women wore plaid skirts as a casual alternative to matching suit separates.  The plaid prints were large and usually in dark earth tones – brown, tan, green, and grey. Deep red and yellow added some color in the summer.

1942 Plaid Skirts

Post Wartime 1940s Skirts

After the war ended and restrictions were finally lifted, skirts added back in some of the special design elements.

All around pleating was very common. Knife pleats, inverted pleats, and box pleats were the most popular because they kept the skirt flat and smooth over the hips while adding volume at the hem. The overall shape was still A-line, but pleating added a bit more swing to a woman’s step, a sign of post war joy.

Colors brightened up with cheerful yellow, green, aqua, powder blue, royal blue, purple and red.

Colorful tartans and plaids were especially popular with teens. Since they didn’t need to wear a suit jacket with their skirts, they wore cheerful sweaters, pullover tops, and white blouses.

The signature look for all teens in the 1940s was a white blouse, plaid skirt, and saddle shoes.

1940s Teens Wearing White Blouses, Plaid Skirts, and Saddle Shoes

Besides plaid there were some other prints: houndstooth check, gingham check, and vertical candy stripes.

The mid to late 1940s also began diversifying the skirt waistbands. Instead of pleats there was draping to one side, the sarong style.  These were not usually sold alone but with a coordinating dressy blouse to knit sweater top.

1946 Sarong style draped skirt

Late 1940s Skirts

After 1947,  Dior’s ‘New Look’ started to exaggerate women’s fashion and the ’40s skirt took on even more volume.

Petticoats were not required, although slips featured a bit more fullness at the hem. The 1940s skirt fullness was achieved with a wider A-line cut,  a full circle cut, gathered waistband or bigger box pleats.

Most colors were still plain (a versatile wardrobe was still necessary) but some stripes, checks, and floral prints started to appear in summer time looks.

1949 Classic Skirts Updated with Large Pockets and Waistbands

The length of the late 1940s skirt also feel back down to mid calf- the midi length.

Large patch pockets or decorative flap pockets were added to some skirts at the waistband.

Big leather belts and ties were worn to make the waist appear smaller and hips fuller. The Medici belt and corset belt was a throw back to the Victorian era and was instrumental in the 1948-1949 Gibson Girl look.

To balance the full skirt, belts were also wide. Leather belts or matching fabric belts featured 5+ inch wide belts, with or without buckles. They were usually worn over the skirt instead of through belt loops on the skirt.

1946 wool skirts with belts

Going into the 1950s we begin to see the furl circle skirt. Circle cut skirts were around throughout the decade but the fullness was never exaggerated. With longer hemlines the full circle skirt had a bigger personality. Unlike the 1950s circle skirt the 40s skirt was worn without a petticoat or crinoline.

1949 full circle skirt

Also going into the 1950s we see the first look at the slim pencil skirt. Midi length pencil skirts fit like a straight column from hip to shin or a with a slight gradual flare.

1946 slender skirts aka the pencil skirt

1949 narrow pencil skirt vs box pleated A-line skirt. Darts at the hip give the pencil skirt a tailored shape. 

1940s Dirndl Skirts in Summer

Something interesting happened during the war years. The U.S. started to import clothing from Mexico. They were much cheaper and more colorful than anything women could make or buy in the States.

However they were given the name Dirndl after some Hollywood Starlets were seen vacationing in the Swiss Alps and bringing back these delightful cotton “peasant” skirts. The peasant skirt was also called an Alpine Skirt in some regions.  1940s peasant dresses were made of matching skirts and tops too.

1940s Peasant Skirts in Fun Prints and Spring Colors

The dirndl skirts were knee length and A-line, but also featured the ruffles and trim missing from rationed skirts. They also had embroidery and lace edging in an array of bright, cheerful colors and fun festive prints.

1940s Peasant Skirts and Blouses

Folk patterns and characters decorated many 1940s peasant / dirndl skirts. They were a breath of fresh summer air during a depressing time in history.

1942 “Gay Dirndl Skirts” for summer

After the war, U.S. designers incorporated peasant skirts and blouses into summer fashions. Additional styles were borrowed from other ethnic regions such as South America and tropical Hawaii.

1946 dirndl skirts with ruffles

Mid ’40s peasant skirts, especially those for teens, used less traditional ethnic patterns and instead turned to Americana folk art. The large flowers and giant strawberries pictured below are two examples of these American art styles. It was these bold art prints that led to the cultural love of applique poodle skirts in the 1950s.

1944 Peasant Skirts

Other popular patterns for peasant skirts were gingham checks, wide vertical stripes, fruits, and flowers. Adding small ruffle trim and lace to tiered layers gave them a western flair.

Peasant skirts with border print fabric was yet another trendy in 1940s summer skirts.

1943 butterfly border print skirt

It was also the dirndl skirt with its gathered waist band that gave way to the fully gathered circle skirt that dominated the next 10 years of fashion.

1940s Peasant Skirt and Blouse Look for Summer

1940s Skirts Today

A pleated A line skirt is a classic style perfect for a 1940s look.

One of the first 1940s thrift store costumes looks I made was a simple 1940s skirt and blouse. Pictured above, the blouse is a vintage late 1940s top paired with a 1980s pleated skirt, vintage summer hat, and bead necklace.  Nearly any pleated skirt, lightly gathered skirt, or plaid A-line skirt from the thrift store can be a great start to creating a 1940s look.

I am always on the lookout for A-line skirts to add to my collection. When shopping, don’t forget to check out the 2-piece suits. The jackets are usually too modern, but the skirts can be perfect.

Shop 1940s style skirts

For 1940s reproduction skirts or vintage inspired styles, there are some nice options available. Most vintage inspired skirts tend to favor the 1950s circle skirt or pencil skirt. For a genuine ’40s look, it is better to choose a knee length A-line style or dirndl skirt (if you can find one).

Read More 1940s Fashion History

• 1940s Women’s Tops and Blouses
• 1940s Fabrics and Colors in Fashion
• Women’s Sweaters in the 1940s
• Women’s Skirt Styles in the 1950s
• 1930s-1950s Westernwear History