“It’s the ‘hardy perennial’ of shoe fashions… ever smart…ever now!,” claimed a 1930s description for brown and white saddle shoes. If there ever was a 2oth century shoe that was always in style, it was the saddle shoe. Developed in the 1900s, saddle shoes took 50 years to reach movie star status in the 1950s, but it was always a wardrobe staple, experiencing only slight changes over half a century. Women’s and men’s Saddle shoes are an icon of vintage style today.
Let us explore the saddle shoes history over the years.
Saddle Shoe History: 1900s-1920s
In the 1900s and 1910s the need for special sport or “outing” shoes increased demand. Women and men were taking up leisure sports such as tennis, badminton, golf, cricket, gymnasium, basketball, and bowling. Many wealthy sportsmen wore white clothes and with white leather or canvas oxford shoes and boots.
Black and white sport shoes were an alternative to the all white shoes. The designs alternative bands of black across a white body and toebox. They were not quite the single “saddle” patch that was about to become fashionable.
1916 black on white trim oxford shoes for tennis.
My usual fashion history sleuthing came up empty as to the origins of the saddle shoe design. What we do know is that it was initially a sport oxford designed for men. Golfers, in particular, picked up on the two tone color scheme and incorporated it with their uniforms starting around 1910 and lasting well beyond the 1920s and 1930s.
The saddle shoe was another names for the saddle oxford. Oxford shoes featured a low heel, 5 eyelet laces, thin sole and rounded toebox. With the addition of the saddle patch they were named saddle oxfords.
1922 white canvas with black leather saddle strap and heel back stay. Notice the square toes too. For women or men.
Men quickly diversified the two tone combination into wingtips Oxfords and loafers. They replaced the simple saddle pattern with a swirl of two tone colors. Concerned about dirty shoes, they also replaced white with an off white eggshell color.
1922 men’s golf saddle shoes
Women, however, enjoyed the simplicity of the saddle design and embraced it much more than men. As with all things sporty in the 1920s, women were quick to take the men’s saddle shoe and wear it for themselves. They liked the pure white contrast with black leather saddle. Pure white soles were a must too. They required frequent cleaning and whitening of the white canvas material.
1924 saddle shoes
Heels remained very low to keep with the ease of walking, running, or hiking. Girls often wore them in gymnasium classes. The majority of clothing catalogs at the time targeted saddle shoes to women and girls equally.
A more lady like Cuban heel was added to some women’s Oxfords to marry the common walking shoe with the casualness of the sporty saddle pattern. They were worn with sporty knits, house dresses, and men’s style knickers in the 1920s.
1922 Saddle Oxfords with Cuban heel, canvas body, rubber saddle, black laces.
1930s Saddle Shoes
The trend for canvas continued into the Depression era. Other materials were cheapened to keep them affordable. Leather or rubber 1930s saddle shoes were replaced by dark fabric – whatever scraps the factory could acquire for cheap. In some ways these made them for flexible and breathable- a change that would last.
Joan Bennett, 1930, plays tennis with saddle shoes
Crepe rubber was the “new” style of saddle shoes sole to have, since it was durable, non slip, shock absorbing, and less costly to make. We started to see some contrast white stitching and white laces in the 1930s. Depression or not, women still wanted to look fashion forward!
1933 “Uppers of bleached and mercerized white duck with black fabric and rubber saddle strap. Real crepe soles and wedge heels.”
The mid 1930s also saw the first pair of saddle shoes to leave the brown and white or black and white color combination. Blue and white canvas saddle shoes became the new trendy shoes to wear. Lighter shades of brown also made them more feminine and complimentary to lighter summer fabrics.
Blue and White or brown and white duck cloth saddle shoes with natural rubber heels.
Saddle shoes soles were usually a natural rubber color that looked best with lighter colors too. Only the Oxford style with taller heels used leather soles instead of rubber. Saddles shoes were still mostly a summer time shoe, especially when made of canvas.
1937- Leather returns with black or brown saddle straps, white or black soles, and wedge or stacked heels.
1937 Men’s saddle shoes with crepe soles in brown/brown or black/black.
1938s Rubber sole saddle shoes. Brown and white with brown laces.
By the end of the 1930s, the Depression lessened and factories returned to making leather saddle shoes. Men could now afford leisure shoes again, and more saddle shoe designs were available for men. Steering away from the color combination that women were wearing, men’s shoes now came in dark on dark tones. Tan on dark brown, black on black, blue on black, and black on grey were just some of the new options.
1940s Saddle Shoes
1940’s Saddle shoes in brown and cream with brown soles and white stitching
The 1940s was when saddle shoes really came into pop culture. Men were wearing two tone shoes with business attire, and women with afternoon dresses and even suits. They were no longer a sport only look. It was the female teenager, however, who adopted the saddle shoe as her exclusive shoe. Having worn them as girls, young teens still found them to be a style that was more youthful than most women’s shoes, such as the wedge or peep toe.
Men’s 1940’s Brown and White Saddle Shoes, white laces
With the war going on in the early ’40s, the “make do and mend” mentality applied to footwear for everyone. The respectful trend with teens was to make new saddle shoes look old:
“At the time it was the style to wear dirty saddle shoes, so spent the rest of the day rubbing my new shoes in the grass and driveway gravel until they looked just right” – Marge Goral (quoted in Life in the Fantastic Forties)
See if you can spot the dirt in the following photos of teens in the 40’s.
Modeling summer fashion with shorty shorts and saddle shoes.
Teens and skirts, bobby socks and dingy saddle shoes
1942 Women and Girls Saddle Shoes, Black and white black soles, and white laces.
1940’s saddle shoes, Bobby socks and a hair comb? A trendy way to say “I care about my appearance.”
1949 teens all wearing saddle shoes and bobby socks.
1950s Saddle Shoes
Teens in the ’40s started the trend for saddle shoes and bobby socks. They were nearly always black and white saddle shoes with either natural or black rubber soles.
1956 saddle shoes, white soles
The dirty shoes trend ended, and the latest craze was for red rubber soles and spotless “just like new” saddle shoes. Girls would spend an hour everyday cleaning and polishing shoes to perfection.
Starting in Junior High, every girl and now boys had to wear saddle shoes. For the girls, they looked best with poodle skirts. On the weekends and in summers, they looked great with denim blue jeans, too.
These teens were called “Bobby-soxers” because they always wore white socks with their saddle shoes. “Bobby socks are a fun and comfortable way to ‘girly up’ masculine footwear like brogues or saddle shoes. The socks are generally ankle length and white with a lace upper that folds over, sometimes with a ribbon bow to add a decorative element to a plain shoe.”- Queens of Vintage, “How to be a Bobby Soxer”
1955 white sole, black sole trim, elk leather saddles shoes. Also in white/brown.
Bobby socks had to be folded down just right, in perfect symmetry with each other.
In Baltimore I either wore saddle shoes or a ballet type slipper. If wearing saddle shoes the socks had to be rolled precisely and then one year I had things that were like doughnuts that went inside the rolled part. That way the cuffs were huge. Don’t ask why-I don’t remember! – Barbara, Madame Hatsy (check out her hat shop!)
Housewives also loved saddle shoes. Comfortable to wear around the house yet too informal to be “proper,” housewives quickly changed into heels before their husbands came home. It was a secret ritual women performed daily, yet their husbands never knew about it.
1952 Men’s Saddle shoes (R), brown and white, white laces, brown and black soles.
1950s- Young college man in his saddle shoes
As the 1950s moved on, so did the evolution of the saddle shoe. Just like the ’20s and ’30s put the saddle strap onto walking Oxfords, the ’50s put the saddle strap onto flats, loafers, and pumps. The saddle strap was everywhere, in every color and every material. Suede shoes? Check. Patent leather? Check. Pink, green, red ? Check, check, check.
The saddle shoe became the iconic style of the 1950s. How could they not be when every man, woman, and child was wearing them!
Audrey Hepburn inspired black “flatties” and now in new saddle and loafer flatties.
In the mid 1950s, the “Bubble” saddle Oxford became common for a few years. It was a slimmed down version of the chunkier saddle Oxford and often had a buckle across the back of the heel. The soles were also thinner and heels low. It was a lighter, more fashionable version adopted by students. It was often called “Ivy League” or “Ivy Style” for its popularity with college students.
1957 Bubble saddle shoes with back buckle, black soles, black laces. Also in grey and black and all black styles.
The Italian style saddle shoes with a slingback strap around the foot and ankle was also a mid to late 1950s new feature.
1956 Italian or slingback style saddle shoes
Saddles shoes picked up new, trendy colors in the late 1950s. Shiny r cxed, blue, and pink were great picks for young teens.
1958 saddle shoes
1960s Saddle Shoes
1964 black and white and black on black saddle shoes
Were saddle shoes popular in the 60s? You would think that after such a pop culture explosion of the saddle shoe in the 1950s, the style would be outdated by the 1960s. Not quite. Girls, boys and young teens continued to wear saddle shoes in the 1960s as their daily uniform.
Many schools actually made saddle shoes part of the dress code well into the 1990s. In the early ’60s, and the black on black leather on black suede saddle shoe became the newer trendier school styles. Narrow and flat sole saddle shoes also replaced the heavier oxford saddle shoe.
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- 1960 saddle shoes
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- 1960 classic, velvet and bubble saddle shoes
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- 1964 bubble and classic saddle shoes
The 1960s was the last decade that adults were seen wearing the shoes. Why the sudden change? It had a lot to do with the rebellion against old school values and styles. The mod generation embraced two tone color blocking into fashion, but not the saddle shoe.
By now it was too old, had too much history, and was too childlike for a grown up generation. Sad, but all good things must come to end… at least until the next revival.
1960s women and saddle shoes and sailor play suits, (This must have been for a performance where women were acting as school children. )
1970s Saddle Shoes
During the 1970s many vintage shoes styles and patterns were revived, including the saddle shoe. Men and boy’s saddle shoes were updated with a platform sole, rounded body, thicker laces and more color combinations.
Women’s shoes although common with two tone patterns, did not embraced the saddle. They continued to be worn with school uniforms at many private schools into the 1980s.
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- 1974 classic saddle shoes
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- 1974 men’s saddle shoes
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- 1974 men’s two tone shoes
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- 1974 boys saddle shoes
From the mid 1970s onward saddle shoes come into fashion in brief spurts. The next wave was in the late 1980s, again, with only men’s shoes. Tan and blue with white body saddles were trendier than the still outdated black and white saddle oxford.
1986 men’s saddle shoes
Saddle Shoes Today?
I would like to say the saddle shoe has come back in fashion as fervently as they were in the ’50s. They haven’t, but that doesn’t mean they can’t be found. There will always be saddle shoes for 1950s costumes and men’s shoes never did lose the saddle from their line (although just in dark colors, rarely a re-run of the black and white combination).
A recent trend for walking Oxfords and ballet flats saw a few saddle patterns return on women’s shoes as well. Basically, if you want a pair of saddle shoes to recreate for a vintage costume or your vintage inspired wardrobe, you have some options:
Saddle Shoes shop page – Women’s and men’s saddle shoes from multiple shoe retailers online.
Debbie Sessions has been teaching fashion history and helping people dress for vintage themed events since 2009. She has turned a hobby into VintageDancer.com with hundreds of well researched articles and hand picked links to vintage inspired clothing online. She aims to make dressing accurately (or not) an affordable option for all. Oh, and she dances too.
