Vintage Men’s Tie History 1910-1970

1950s Mod Ties

Neckties, bowties, scarfs and cravats.  Men’s neckwear is one of the most fascinating elements of vintage men’s apparel. With just the change of a tie a man can alter his persona from 20s gangster to 50s rebel to 60s ad men. At first glance through 20th century men’s tie history you may think a tie is a tie is a tie but with a keen eye on the subtle differences between colors, patterns, materials and size you will be a vintage necktie expert in no time.

1910-1920s Men’s Ties

1928 Men’s Silk Ties

1922 Men’s scarf ties, knit ties and bow ties.

During the teens and most of the 20’s men’s neckwear came in such a variety of colors, shapes and styles that I would call it the best era of men’s ties. It was also the start of the modern necktie as we know it today.

Previously the bow tie was very popular for day wear with patterns of horizontal stripes, plaids, and polka dots in light pinks, purples, greys and greens. Neckties too were full of color from the “club” or “regimental” striped ties started in Europe to the  gold toned paisley prints that were especially popular in the USA. All over prints of  stripes, checks, and diamond patterns also reigned in Europe.

Neckties were thin- about 2 and 3/8 inches- and made of very fine silk. The quality of the man was often judged by the quality of his silk tie.

1920s Knit Tie

One forgotten tie of the 20’s was the knit wool necktie. Made of one long 2 inch thin strip with fringed or straight bottom edge it is a tie that has resurfaced again and again in history. I recently saw them in my local department stores so clearly they are back in fashion once again.

The scarf tie is also somewhat back in style too. Worn as a simple wrap and tied knot today,  in the 1920’s it was made of a large silk or rayon scarf that was tied in a Windsor knot and then tucked under a pullover vest or sweater (also in style this year.) Shop 1920s style men’s neckties. 

Learn even more about the history of 1920s men’s ties.

1930s Men’s Ties

Vintage 1930s Men’s Red Cloud Neck tie

1930s Men’s ties- Plaid, Stripes, small paisley, solid silk, windowpane and large checks.

By the 1930’s scarf ties and bow ties were out of style leaving only the silk necktie to dominate.  Multiple colors of horizontal stripes, plaids, checks, windowpane, small paisley

, large dots, pin dots and art deco motifs  clashed with men’s shirts. It was a wild and colorful time in menswear. Earthy greens, yellows, peach and blues were the predominant colors of the 30’s in the early years with bold blues, reds, grey and black popping up in the later years. Hand painted art deco designs started in the 20s but really found a place in the 1930s. Famous artists would hand paint ties as a way of bringing art into everyday life. Necktie widths grew wider (about 3.5 inches) and shorter to go with the wider suit lapels and oversize shirt collars of the 30s. Shop 1930s style men’s ties.

1940s Men’s Ties

1941 men’s conservative drab colored ties

When war time struck so did restrictions on men’s ties. Silk was in short supply so rayon and wool knit ties were the thing to buy or better yet make (thanks mom!) Shortly after WW2 men’s ties took a radical shift in style. No longer confined by fabric rationing men’s ties got wide- very wide and short to ending above the belt line, which was already high on the waist.

1942 Men’s plaid, stripe and tone on tone abstract print neckties

In the early ’40s neckties were tied in a Windsor knot. This fat knot fit well into the wide spread collars on dress shirts and wide lapels of 1930s business suits. necktie colors reflected the serious nature of the world. Solid or striped ties of maroon-red, blue, white and black were about the only choices.  Most prints were color on a white background.

As the War waged on matte finished rayon striped regimental ties on blue, silver and red replaced Japanese silk ties.  Wool and wool-cotton ties were also used instead of silk. They could be made smooth like rayon but didn’t wrinkle. They also took large patterns well such as stripes, checks and plaid.

1942 Men’s striped and dot dress shirts with rep stripe ties (browns, greens, reds/maroon)

One brief trend around 1942  was the center striped tie consisting of one long vertical stripe down the center of the tie. The color could be solid or textured such as herringbone, check or tweed like weaves.

1944 Patriotic Red and Blue Colored Tie Patterns

By 1943 men were tired of drab conservatism. They turned to new, bold colors, and big geometric designs. Set against bland grey and blue suits they brought joy to the wearer and those around him. Maroon, green, brown, blue, and gold were saturated colors. Patriotic red, blue and white in abstract patterns were also very popular. Tie lengths fluctuated between 45 and 47 inches long coordinating with the rise and fall of men’s trousers. By 1950 ties lengths reached 50 inches.

1947 “painted” men’s neckties, stripes and textured solids

The need for self expression increased during the war and after. Handpainted ties sold for about $25 and were one way men could express themselves via their hobbies and interests including a new fascination with “modern art.” Men amassed huge collections of neckties and tie-swaps and tie-swapping clubs were popular gatherings.

Geometric, curly lines, monograms, and art deco style patterns were painted in bright colors of blue, red, gold and brown. Animals, plants, flowers, birds, western and tropical printed themes were everywhere. Handpainted ties were often themed around the wearer’s hobbies and interests, like painting, fishing, sailing or hunting.  Handpainted ties needed a large canvas so naturally neckties grew to be 4.5 to 5 inches wide. They were given nicknames “scrambled egg ties” for the mix of muddled circles and darts the patterns created or Belly Warmers.

1947 more painted ties in bold abstract “modern art” designs

The very wide “Belly Warmer” tie, with a hula girl and palm trees painted on it was especially popular in America.  Introduced as a joke, the belly warmer ties became trendy after actors like Bob Hope, Alan Ladd and Danny Kay were seen wearing them.  Soon after, scantily clad pin-up girls painted on the back side of a tie became a fashionable secret.

1948 Bold Look geometric ties

1949 bold prints, geometric designs

Late 1940s men’s nature themed ties

1940s men’s “sealife” neckties

In 1948 the Bold Look became the inspiration for all men’s clothing. Wide fit clothes (similar to the 1930s) with wide collars, wide knot ties and “bold” new colors and big geometric patterns replaced smaller designs and military colors (red, navy blue, khaki.) Handpainted ties to continued to be trendy and became even more so in the 1950s when novelty designs were on trend.

1944 Men’s foulard prints bow tie with tipped ends

The bow tie was an alternative to the necktie in the 1940s. It had lost favor, possibly because it wasn’t bold enough compared to handpainted ties. They too were made of rayon in medium sizes prints with an adjustable neckband up to 16 inches.  The ends could be square (butterfly) or diamond tipped. Maroon, blue or brown dominated colors choices through the mid ’40s.  In the late ’40s bow ties vanished again except as part of work uniforms in plain, wool or cotton, types.

Learn how to tie a classic bow tie.

1940s men’s bow ties and knit neckties

The final style of necktie men wore was the knit tie. They were usually handmade items of plain color knitted or crochet rows. They were very economical and easy to make, washed well, and were thinner (about 3 inches) with a square edge. I could only find a few examples of these ties, worn by younger men, around the mid 1940s. It had been a classic style for decades so it’s likely they never went “out of style” but they were worn mostly with casual clothing or work uniforms.

See more pictures of men’s 1940s neckties via McCalls sewing patterns.  Also the 1940s men’s dress shirts section here has many examples of ties and how they were paired with dress shirts.

Shop 1940s style men’s ties in classic vintage patterns. Look on ebay.com or etsy.com for vintage 1940s ties. 

1950s- 1970s Men’s Ties

Geo Print Men’s Ties

1950s Art print ties

Wide ties gradually narrowed again by the mid ’50s to a “normal” width of about 3 and 1/8 inches. They kept on narrowing into the 1960s when the 2 inch skinny tie came in vogue to go with skinny suits. Solid colors were preferred in most of the ’50s business attire while mod art designs entered in the ’60s. Both traditional pointed neckties and square end ties had their place. Pink, purple, yellow, and aqua colors were seen with large geometric shapes, wide stripes, and square dots. As a collector you just have to love ’60s neckties. Shop 1950s or 1960s men’s ties.

1959 Skinny Ties

If you like crazy patterns as well then the ’70s are you for. Earth tones and plant life, large paisley and animal prints made of wool and polyester materials gave the ties a new texture. Once again ties expanded to about 4.5 inches wide but longer this time (some of those men’s pants were low riders.)  One popular new tie in Europe was the neckerchief. A square silk scarf was tied around the neck and held in place with either a square knot or a tie ring with ends pointing to the sides.

1970s Men’s Ties

The 1980s is where I draw the line at my vintage research. Born in the ’80s its always hard to think of your youth as “vintage” now. I do however remember buying my dad a tie every year for Christmas. He liked wide horizontal striped ties in navy blues, reds and grey the most. Occasionally we would get him a funny Christmas tie with cartoon characters all over it. I am pretty sure that has been a tradition among families for most of the century.