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Vintage Dancer | 1920s Fashion | Did Women Wear Pants in the 1920s? Yes! sort of…

Did Women Wear Pants in the 1920s? Yes! sort of…

1920's Style Guide Series- Learn 1920s Fashion History· 1920s Fashion History

28 Aug 2013

The fact that the debate over women and pants was still happening in the 1960s tells you that in the 1920s, women wearing pants was likely to raise eyebrows. Even Katherine Hepburn and her newsworthy trousers in the 1930s could not shake the public perception of women strutting around town in what was widely considered men’s clothing. 1920s pants for women were not common or widely accepted in public, with a few exceptions.

1920s sporting women MDafoeMay1924Crop pD

Sporting pants and knickers were somewhat acceptable for women to wear in the 1920s for sports and leisure

1920s Knicker Sport Pants

1920s teen girls wearing knickers

1920s teen girls wearing sport knickers, men’s shirts and ties.

Women’s knickers fell into a gray area. They were accepted as sportswear. It was fine for a woman to pull on checked wool tweed or linen knee-length knickers and pair them with a khaki shirt, knee-high socks, and lace-up Oxford shoes as long as she had a golf club in her hand. But were they accepted as an outfit for lunch with the ladies? No. In a small town in West Virginia, it was against the law for women to wear knickers at all until a referendum was passed. Many golf courses banned women from wearing casual knickers until the mid ’20s.

A camera "man" style. New women wore men's knickers, striped shirt, 8 panel cap, gators and oxfords.

A camera “man” style. New women wore men’s knickers, striped shirt, 8 panel cap, gaiters, and Oxfords.

Knickers were common for other sports, too, like hiking, riding, and hunting. They were comfortable, sporty, and fit right in with the “boyish” style of the youth culture. Young women wore them on weekends even while not playing sports. Women stagehands working in Hollywood were also wearing knickers as part of their work attire. Vacationing / adventure-seeking women in far off places such as Egypt, Africa, and Australia’s outback found wearing knickers much more suitable for exploring rugged terrain.

1920s sportswear outfit ideas for non flappers

1920s Sportswear outfit idea – Blouse, cap, tie, socks, knickers and Oxford shoes.

Women’s knickers were made of grey or tan serge, linen, tweed, or denim cloth often with pressed center legs, cuffs below the knee that fasted with buttons and a waistband that fastened with buttons on the side. Slash pockets on either side of the crotch line added more style than functionality to the design. In the late 1920s, corduroy velour became another fabric choice for knickers, complete with matching corduroy sports shirt. The new matching ensemble was much more fashionable than practical, and women appreciated wearing the casual sporty look without needing to play a sport.

1920s Florance wearing knickers
Florance wearing knickers
Knitwear spocks, sweater and knickers
Knitwear spocks, sweater and knickers
Helen Richey first commercial female airline pilot in US on right

Sporting clothes were often called togs in the early 1920s. They were sold a coordinating set of knickers and jacket or jacket-vest.

1920s Sports Togs / Knicker outfits

192 Corduroy togs set knickers women sport casual
1923 Corduroy togs set
1927 women in pants, tweed knickers and button down blouse
1927 tweed knickers and button down blouse
1929 tweed knickers and a shirt-blouse
1929 tweed knickers and a vest style shirt-blouse
women 1929 plaid knickers and mackinaw jacket
1929 plaid knickers and mackinaw jacket

1922 check knickers with sport cardigan for golf
1922 check knickers with sport cardigan for golf
1923 two sports togs with belted jackets
1923 two sports togs with belted jackets
1928 cotton tweed togs with vested belt
1928 cotton tweed togs with vested belt

My good friend Lady Carolyn made replica sporting togs from the 1923 Sears catalog. She did an amazing job, and they look so fun to wear. No wonder women loved sporty “men’s” clothes.

Riding Breeches

At first glance, knickers and riding breeches (pants for horseback riding) look the same. The primary difference is that breeches were long pants with a fitted side lacing leg up to the knee and then very wide hip and thigh on up to the waist. The design was to provide ample room in the seat, and a slim leg to fit tall riding boots over the leg.  Some women wore breeches for travel and other sports, but in general riding breeches were for horseback riding only.

1920s women pants Traveling togs for adventurous women

Traveling in breeches

1920s sport togs knicker pants for women
Riding outfits
1929 riding breeches

1920s “Bloomer” Knickers

1920s George Fox university girls basketball team wearing middy tops and bloomer knickers

George Fox university girls basketball team wearing middy tops and bloomer knickers

Schoolgirls wore bloomers, a softer form of knickers, in school as well as part of their gym uniform. Black or navy boomers with a Middy top had already been in fashion for girls for a decade or more. It stayed on trend into the 1930s. One woman as a schoolgirl in the mid-1920s recalls, “The girls all wore middy blouses rolled up at the sides and pinned to look more in style. We also wore sateen bloomers in blue, red, green or purple, they were tightly fitted below the knees with an elastic cuff. Oftentimes on hot afternoons in our country school, one girl would snap an elastic cuff, then another girl would snap hers. Pretty soon, the snap-snap-snapping sounds were coming from every desk!”– Genevieve Brandon, From Flappers to Flivvers. 

1926 satin sport bloomers

1926 satin sport bloomers

1920a Beach Pajama Pants

Vintage photo 1920s beach pajamas- I love that print!

1920s beach pajamas- I love that print!

Besides bloomers and men’s knickers, a more feminine pant was the two-piece beach pajama. They were not sleeping pajamas, although the styles were very similar. They fell closer to the sportswear category. The wide leg pants were made of crepe-de-chine, cotton, or silk. Some came with a bell-shaped leg – early bell bottoms! Most fit like a straight leg palazzo pant with matching or contrasting sleeveless top. A matching wrap jacket was also sold as a perfect cover-up at the beach.

1920s Beach pajamas for the beach
Pajamas for the beach
1929 pattern for beach pajamas
1929 pattern for beach pajamas

1929 silky beach pajamas
1929 silky beach pajamas
Louise Brooks with velvet jacket and silk pajama pants

Late 1920s vintage beach pajamas on display at the London Fashion & Textile Museum

Late 1920s vintage beach pajamas on display at the London Fashion & Textile Museum

Women liked their beach pajamas so much that as the calendar hit 1930, pajamas became acceptable attire for hosting parties, visiting good friends, and for those less concerned with tradition, the theater. Those who were not going to a resort anytime soon simply adopted the style for relaxing at home and called them “lounjamas.” Linen, velvet, and cotton were favored over lace or silk/satin to make sure it was clear that these were not sleeping pajamas. Again, this was really a thirties style, not twenties, but the look began in the late ’20s among the fashion elite. Learn more about the history of beach pajamas.

Late 1920s asian inspired house pajama set

Late 1920s Asian inspired lounjamas

 

1920s beach pajama pants

Actress Gertrude Olmstead, 1920s lounjamas

The pajama pant look with wide flowing legs, coordinated blouse, and a long scarf coat is one authentic 1920s outfit a woman can wear to 1920s themed event that isn’t a dress. Fran Fisher frequently wears them in the Miss Fisher’s Murder Mysteries series. She mixes the pants with other types of tops, shawls wraps, and long and short jackets.

My advice for women who want to wear pants to an event is to seek out a loose-fitting evening pant set or pair of palazzo pants with a simple top and a shawl/wrap/scarf coat.

Miss Fisher Murder Mysteries. A pair of wide leg pants, modest top and long jacket or wrap is almost dress like and a very vintage alternative to dresses.

Scene from Miss Fisher Murder Mysteries: A pair of wide leg pants, modest top and long jacket or wrap is almost dress-like and a very vintage alternative to wearing dresses.

Another option is to make or buy reproduction 1920s Beach Pajamas. Most patterns will be based on the 1930s. You can also look for sleeping pajama patterns and adapt them for daywear.

1930s beach pajamas

1920s-1930s beach pajamas- Made by House of Foxy.

1920s Men’s Pants for Women

Did any woman wear pants in the way that we think of pants today? Not flowing pajama bottoms or knickers, but actual trousers? Yes, a few women did that, but make no mistake that a woman had to be as bold as Amelia Earhart to wear them. For the women who opted for pants as daywear, they wore them the same way that man did: with men’s shirts, neckties, vests, caps, and blazers.

1920s gangster outfit for women, 20s pants costume peaky blinders women

1920s Peaky Blinders female gangster outfit

1920s women’s trousers were like men’s: high waisted, straight leg (sometimes tapered to the ankle, but most were wide leg), cuff or no cuff, and either a button fly if it was men’s pants or no-fly/side button if it was specially designed for women. There were no off the rack pants women could purchase. They either modified men’s pants, made their own, or had them custom made.

1920s women in pants. Playing tennis is men's white pants shirts neckties. The headscarves are the only women's item.
Playing tennis is men’s white pants shirts neckties. The headscarves are the only women’s item.
Italian Singer Nella Regini in a suit neck scarf and cap
1920s women wearing pants trosuers
1920s Paris Woman in plaid pants, wool blazer, cap

Amelia Earhart aviatrix aviator costume outfit idea 1920s not-flapper costume vintagedancer

Amelia Earhart 1920s aviatrix outfits

What is all this fuss about pants, anyway? After all, it was just in February 2013 that it became officially legal for Parisian women to wear pants when a law dating back to 1799 was stricken from the books. The reasons for this pants-phobia vary. Religion, modesty, and gender roles top the list. Even the Jazz Age was not enough to fully bring women’s pants into fashion, but it was the start of a fashion revolution that would continue to evolve for decades to come.

1920s feminine and masculine styles. Get these looks at VintageDancer.com/1920s

1920s feminine and masculine styles from the TV show Miss Fisher’s Murder Mysteries

 

1920s casual menswear for women sporty costume ideas

1920s casual menswear for women sporty costume ideas

Workwear

Women who worked on farms and intensive labor occupations could hardly wear dresses for their duties. Women had to adapt men’s overalls and coveralls into working clothes. They had been doing this since WWI (1914-1918). There were some overalls and coveralls still being made for women in the 1920s, but they were few and far between. Those sold to women in catalogs and department stores were marketed at women who did gardening and housework. Gone were the days women were encouraged to work a man’s job, although many continued to do so out of necessity.

1922 khaki coveralls for working the garden

1922 khaki coveralls for working the garden

1920s Overalls for women pants working clothes

Overalls for women

1920s Working ladies in knickers and overalls

Working ladies in knickers and overalls

Women’s Tuxedo

Another cross-dressing option was worn by female cabaret performers. A show costume was usually a men’s tuxedo tailored down to fit a woman’s body with a black derby/bowler/top hat, cane, Oxford shoes, and a monocle.  Anita Berber pictured below was an iconic naughty showgirl of the era.  Gladys Bentley was another performer who often wore men’s tuxedos in the 1920s and 1930s as part of her stage persona.

1920s Vaudeville Showgirl. A non-flapper 1920s costume idea. Get the outfit at vintagedancer.com

1920s Vaudeville Showgirl- See outfits details here. 

Gladys Bentley

1920s Inspired Pants and Knickers

Looking to wear pants for a 1920s event? We found some long pants and knicker pants for sale online. From flowing beach pajamas to menswear style trousers.

Did Women Wear Pants in the 1920s? Yes! sort of… Unique Vintage 1930S Charcoal Grey Pinstripe Thelma Suspender Pants $78.00 AT vintagedancer.com
UniqueVintage
$78.00
Did Women Wear Pants in the 1920s? Yes! sort of… Classic Hunter Horse Riding Olive Corduroy Jodhpurs Vintage Equitation Breeches Jodhpurs Pants Knee Patch Polo Soldiers Pants Breeches $99.50 AT vintagedancer.com
Etsy
$99.50
Did Women Wear Pants in the 1920s? Yes! sort of… Tweed Breeks Trousers Pants Plus Fours by WWK / WorkWear King $54.95 AT vintagedancer.com
Amazon
$54.95
Did Women Wear Pants in the 1920s? Yes! sort of… Leg Avenue Womens 2PC.Brass Knuckle Babe $41.96 AT vintagedancer.com
Amazon
$41.96
Did Women Wear Pants in the 1920s? Yes! sort of… Zeattall Womens Mother of The Bride Groom 3 Piece Pant Suit Beads Chiffon Wedding Mothers Dress  AT vintagedancer.com
Amazon
Did Women Wear Pants in the 1920s? Yes! sort of… Luxe for Life Wide-Leg Pants in- High Waist Vintage Inspired by ModCloth $69.00 AT vintagedancer.com
Modcloth
$69.00
Did Women Wear Pants in the 1920s? Yes! sort of… Adult Gangster Moll Costume  AT vintagedancer.com
Amazon
Did Women Wear Pants in the 1920s? Yes! sort of… Khaki Jodhpurs Pants Calves length Breeches Equestrian Pants Army Officer Horse Riding Jodhpurs Baggy Pants Steampunk Retro Pants $99.50 AT vintagedancer.com
Etsy
$99.50
Did Women Wear Pants in the 1920s? Yes! sort of… Vintage Style Khaki Riding Pants Equestrian Jodhpurs Button Front Breeches Victorian Polo Pants Ankle Length Jodhpurs $99.50 AT vintagedancer.com
Etsy
$99.50
Did Women Wear Pants in the 1920s? Yes! sort of… Men/Women 20s Style Jodhpurs with Suspenders Green Cord Breeches Military High Waist Pants Riding Johdpurs Officers Polo Baggy Pants $149.50 AT vintagedancer.com
Etsy
$149.50
Did Women Wear Pants in the 1920s? Yes! sort of… Unique Vintage Plus Size 1930S Black  White Pin Stripe Thelma Suspender Pants $98.00 AT vintagedancer.com
UniqueVintage
$98.00
Did Women Wear Pants in the 1920s? Yes! sort of… Plus Size Pinstripe Gangster Costume $49.99 AT vintagedancer.com
Amazon
$49.99
Did Women Wear Pants in the 1920s? Yes! sort of…  Wool Blend Herringbone Tweed Knickers Historical Emporium Mens $74.95 AT vintagedancer.com
Amazon
$74.95
Did Women Wear Pants in the 1920s? Yes! sort of… LoveeToo Womens 3 Pieces Chiffon Mother of Groom Bride Dress Pant Suits Long Sleeves with Outfit for Wedding Groom £115.99 AT vintagedancer.com
AmazonUK
£115.99
Did Women Wear Pants in the 1920s? Yes! sort of… Unique Vintage Cream  Black Pinstripe Dietrich Pants $68.00 AT vintagedancer.com
UniqueVintage
$68.00
Did Women Wear Pants in the 1920s? Yes! sort of… Tweed Breeks Trousers Pants Plus Fours by WWK / WorkWear King $54.95 AT vintagedancer.com
Amazon
$54.95
Did Women Wear Pants in the 1920s? Yes! sort of… Smiffys Womens Glam Gangster Costume $52.52 AT vintagedancer.com
Amazon
$52.52
Did Women Wear Pants in the 1920s? Yes! sort of… 1910S-1940s RIDING BREECHES OR JODHPURS $15.95 AT vintagedancer.com
ReconstructingHistory
$15.95
Did Women Wear Pants in the 1920s? Yes! sort of… Men/women Equestrian Jodhpurs Pants Camel Cotton Jodhpuri Breeches Baggy Pant $80.00 AT vintagedancer.com
Etsy
$80.00
Did Women Wear Pants in the 1920s? Yes! sort of… Unique Vintage Plus Size Grey Glen Check Dietrich Pants $68.00 AT vintagedancer.com
UniqueVintage
$68.00
Did Women Wear Pants in the 1920s? Yes! sort of… ThePirateDressing Steampunk Victorian Cosplay Costume Mens Archibald Jodhpur Pants Trousers C1326 $44.95 AT vintagedancer.com
Amazon
$44.95
Did Women Wear Pants in the 1920s? Yes! sort of… LoveeToo Womens 3 Pieces Chiffon Mother of Groom Bride Dress Pant Suits Long Sleeves with Outfit for Wedding Groom £115.99 AT vintagedancer.com
AmazonUK
£115.99
Did Women Wear Pants in the 1920s? Yes! sort of… PJ Harlow Womens Lola $68.00 AT vintagedancer.com
Amazon
$68.00
Did Women Wear Pants in the 1920s? Yes! sort of… Womens Amelia Earhart Costume $47.95 AT vintagedancer.com
Amazon
$47.95
Did Women Wear Pants in the 1920s? Yes! sort of… RH1035 — 1910s-1940s Ladies’ Knickerbockers or Plus Fours $14.95 AT vintagedancer.com
ReconstructingHistory
$14.95
Did Women Wear Pants in the 1920s? Yes! sort of… New Design Elastic Waist Cotton Pants Casual Loose Large Size Trousers Oversized Wide Leg Skirt Pant Customized Plus Size Pants Linen Boho $52.44 AT vintagedancer.com
Etsy
$52.44
Did Women Wear Pants in the 1920s? Yes! sort of… 30s navy blue PAJAMA PANTS Japan crepe slacks 1930 wide leg high waist $227.34 AT vintagedancer.com
Etsy
$227.34
Did Women Wear Pants in the 1920s? Yes! sort of… Steampunk Victorian Cosplay Costume Mens Airship Pants Trousers ThePirateDressing $59.95 AT vintagedancer.com
Amazon
$59.95
Did Women Wear Pants in the 1920s? Yes! sort of… Womens Turnberry Plaid Golf Knickers $85.00 AT vintagedancer.com
Amazon
$85.00
Did Women Wear Pants in the 1920s? Yes! sort of… 1920s Gangster Lady Costume Plus Size $44.99 AT vintagedancer.com
Amazon
$44.99
ViewMore

 

Further Reading:

   Women in Pants: Manly Maidens, Cowgirls, and Other Renegades – History of women who wore pants from 1850 to the 1920s.

 

debbie
We are Debbie and Oscar, your guides to dressing up like decades past. We are here to help you find clothing online and learn about vintage fashions as worn by everyday people, just like you. Need help with your outfit? Ask us anytime.
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1920s Men’s Pants History: Oxford Bags, Plus Four Knickers, Overalls »

Comments

  1. Simone Russell says

    May 2, 2017 at 7:07 pm

    Hello again! I’m reading in my Great-Grandma’s diary about her teenage daughters wearing pants in 1935 that their neighbor brought over so I was curious about public perception at the time. I really like what you wrote about women wearing pants in the 1920s. Have you done much research about women wearing pants in the 1930s?

    • VintageDancer says

      May 3, 2017 at 9:58 am

      I do have a few related articles:
      1920s-1940s Wide Leg Pants and Beach Pajamas [email protected]
      Blue Jeans from the 1930s to 1960s: https://vintagedancer.com/vintage/vintage-denim-jeans/

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