
The Forestry Student Council of Syracuse University 1925 sporting the typical slicked back styles of 1920s men’s haircuts.
In the 1920s, men were almost always wearing a hat. While the trend faded with the young collegiate men, the hairstyle for both hatted and unhatted men were the same. The look was for flat, slicked, shiny, medium length hair. The helmet like appearance of men’s hair produced a few nick names for the style such as “Patent Leather” hair or “helmet head.” What we might call “hat hair” today would have been the style to wear throughout all of the 1920s. Only minor changes occurred in men’s hairstyle during the decade.

Jimmy in Boardwalk Empire Sporting Long Slicked Back Hair
Men’s hairstyles first had to reach the right length. In order to have enough hair to slick back, hair length needed to be about five to seven inches, or enough to reach back over the crown of the head but not too long as to stick out past the crown. If the man was parting his hair on the sides, the lengths were a bit shorter. Regular trips to the men’s barber shop (which by now is running amok with women bobbing their hair) were necessary to keep the length in check, the sideburns high and the back of the neck clean. A barber also gave men a hot towel facial and fresh shave.
To get the slick look, a product called Brilliantine was used. It was oil based, giving off a slimy residue to anything it touched. Homemakers knit lace doilies to cover the backs of high back chairs and couches to protect the furniture from men’s greasy heads. These household protectors continued to be popular into the 1940s and 1950s when sticky wax pomades replaced the light oil brilliantine. The 1920s version was not meant to hold a shape so much as smooth and flatten. Poor men would sometimes used cheaper petroleum jelly instead of the luxurious brilliantine. It did the job, although it was a mess to clean up.
Once thoroughly oiled, a man would then part his hair in one of three popular ways. First was just all straight back- tops were combed over the crown and sides were combed down the head and angled to the back of the crown. The second option was parted directly in the center or slightly off center- whichever parting was most handsome. The third option was a deeper part on one side. It was common during the teens and less common going into the ’20s, but sometimes a necessary style for men with thinning hair – AKA the comb over. It was also more flattering on a round face.

Actor Ralph Forbes with a full head of wavy curls that were sometimes ironed straight for the movies.
Having straight hair made it easier to achieve the ideal 1920s style. Men with curvy or wavy hair had the choices of straightening the hair with hot irons (usually only used in the movie industry) or with lots and lots of heavy oil. Most curly haired men let their curls bounce free with only a light layer of brilliantine to smooth back fly-aways and provide soft shape. A hat did a pretty good job of laying curly hair flat too.
The opposite problem of thick curly hair was the man with thinning or no hair. What little was left was still combed back with a light layer of brilliantine to add shine. If a man was bald, he could either get a toupee or just wear a hat. Lack of hair on an older gentlemen was not a shunned thing. It was a sign of age, wisdom and respect.
Little changed from 1920-1929. The most notable difference is the reduced use of Brilliantine. Men still used it but in less quantities. A fuller, even finger waved, set of hair with a light splash of Brilliantine matched those of the ladies who finger waved their hair into works of art.
More 1920s Men’s Hairstyles
- Rudolph-Valentino
- Paul Billy Williams- Side Part
- Center Part-1929
- Gary Cooper- Wavy Hair
- Victor Varconi- Wide Part
- H.W. Thornton 1922
Hair-styling Tips for Today’s Men
My husband has thick curly hair that is a bit too short to fit the ideal 1920s mold, yet we make do with what we have and the result is pretty good. Here are some tips on products and styling we have learned:
1. Before applying any kind of holding product, wet your hair down. Gently swipe, not rub, off excess water from the forehead, over the crown and to the back of the head. For thick hair let it dry 5 minutes so that it is damp, not sopping wet. For thin hair, don’t wait – apply product right away.
2. Hair products – There are so many men’s and women’s hair products out there I am not even going to list them all. I like Pantine Pro-V “Ice Shine” shampoo and conditioner. It really does leave your hair shiny, which means you will need less oil based product.
As for holding products- you can use them but you don’t need to. Use an oil based serum, such as Three Flowers Brilliantine Liquid. The look will be more authentic if you do, but it’s a mess! Skip the expensive stuff and just use coconut or jojoba oil to grease and shine. Olive oil works, too, but has more odor than coconut. If you need more hold, regular old Vaseline petroleum jelly works well without the smell of dripping oil. You can also use a gel or wax based shine pomade such as Axe Shine Pomade (this is what my husband uses). Comb it into the shape your hair will look best in. For extra smooth flat hair , use a soft brush instead of a comb for the last few swipes. Comb lines were not favorable in the ’20s.
3. Finish – If you are going to oil your hair with anything, I recommend you plan NOT to wear a hat. Save your nice hat and just wash with Ice Shine shampoo or dust your hair with a shine spray such as Garnier Fructis Style Brilliantine Shine.
Note: While men’s hair product lines are expanding you may still have better luck shopping in the ladies’ hair section at your local drugstore. Better yet, the ethnic hair section has the best smoothing products.
Facial Hair
Thanks to the invention of the new safety razor by Gillette, men were enjoying shaving again. Except for the ultra-thin mustache sported by heartthrob movie star Rudolph Valentino, men were not wearing any facial hair in the 1920s. To wear facial hair was a sign that you were hiding something, such as old scars from a smallpox outbreak. 1920s society was obsessed with sanitary conditions and good health. To hide under hair was to appear unsanitary.
Cologne
Men’s cologne was not part of grooming in the 1920s. It didn’t become common until the ’50s and ’60s. Instead, a few men decided to dab a bit of ladies’ perfume under their suit lapels. Subtle yet present. Men were just supposed to smell manly and that was it!
Do you have a hair-styling technique or product that works for you? Leave us your tips in the comments below.
Eric says
Thanks for the info, which I’m using for my PTA’s Roaring 20s fundraiser.
The point about facial hair hiding something is fascinating. The 20s were the peak of the eugenics movement, in which people were obsessed with improving the country’s genetic stock. In 1927, for example, the Supreme Court ruled in Buck v. Bell (in a decision that has never been overturned) that a state has the right to sterilize any citizens it deemed unfit. It’s fascinating that such ideas even made it over into fashion, with men shaving so people wouldn’t think they were hiding a lack of health.
I have a beard, but I guess I’ll have to shave for the party!
Thanks,
Eric
VintageDancer says
That is fascinating history. Thanks for sharing it.
Rae says
Thanks for making this list. It’s not easy to find as much info on jazz age men’s fashion. Unfortunately, I’m trying to research African American men’s hairstyles from this period. I can find (some) pictures, but not much else. Like descriptions, name of styles, upkeep, etc…
If you have any knowledge or advice on this topic I would be so grateful! Cheers!
VintageDancer says
I wish I had more information for you. I can’t seem to locate any 1920s mens hairstyling books for African Ameircan hair. I think a lof of information was passed down verbally. I will keep hunting and hopefully find a good source and update this article. Let me know if you find one before me!
Daniel says
This is sutch a nice page. Mutch information, could you make a oage like this just in the 1930’s?
VintageDancer says
I will add it to my list to write. Thanks!
Aby Sussex says
Hairstyling tips for today’s men
Would the instructions stated result in an oily scalp and leave smear marks on one’s pillowcase for example?
How easy is it to remove the stuff every night?
Much appreciated
VintageDancer says
The more oily the product the more it will leave behind. New products are more gel than oil so they are less likely to leave a smear although I still wouldn’t sleep without washing my hair with a good shampoo. It should come out easily.
Vincisomething says
The character posted in the article is Jimmy [Darmondy], not Tommy. Tommy’s his son, haha :P. But otherwise a great article I could definitely use.
Debbie Sessions says
Oh gosh, yes. I forget to double check my photo captions sometimes.
Tim Oppenlander says
Fantastic page — I’m using this information to help our students understand what their characters in “Belles on Their Toes” would have looked like. Thank you!
Martha Cluff says
Thank you so much for this post. I am using it for the high school production of Thoroughly Modern Millie that I am the costume designer for. Thank you also for your product suggestions. I really appreciate your hard work and research.
Debbie Sessions says
You are very welcome! Best wishes for your show.
Patrick says
Thanks providing such succinct information. I’m in a production that takes place in the 1920s, and you answered all of my questions in the exact order I asked them. 10/10 will use again.
Debbie Sessions says
I am so glad it was helpful. After the show please send me a photo. I would love to see how it all turns out!