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Vintage Dancer | 1920s Style Guide | 1920s Hat Styles for Women- History Beyond the Cloche Hat

1920s Hat Styles for Women- History Beyond the Cloche Hat

1920's Style Guide Series- Learn 1920s Fashion History· 1920s Fashion History

12 Sep 2013

Women's 1920s hats history

Women in the Jazz Age did not leave the house without a hat or some type of head covering. Fortunately for them, there was no reason not to do so with the wide range of hats and headbands that were available to them. Although the snug fitting cloche hat was the most common, it certainly wasn’t the only women’s 1920s hat style. 

1920s womens hats

1927 Ladies Hats

1920s Picture Hats

1920s hat styles of the early years were still somewhat influenced by the enormous hats of the previous decades. The large hats from the turn of the century were often accessorized with an abundance of bird feathers, but the Audubon Society managed to get that trend banned, and once that happened big hats started to fall out of favor.

Straw and ribbon picture hat

Straw and ribbon picture hat

Wide-brimmed picture hats with round crowns were the thing to wear outside in summer.  The brim shape mimicked that of a large bonnet with sides that drooped down, framing the face like a picture.  Broad straw garden hats trimmed with a wide sash of silk and perhaps clusters of artificial flowers on the crown looked fabulous on a sunny day.

Keep in mind that these hats were worn for an afternoon on the town, not for an afternoon pulling weeds. At home, women didn’t need to wear hats inside the house. Outside they would wear a simple straw hat for yard work.

1921 spring wide brim hats
1921 spring wide brim hats
1923 picture hat Photo play magazine
1923 picture hat with Elanore Boardman

1923 summer straw hats
1923 summer straw hats
1927 ribbon and grapes straw hat
1927 ribbon and grapes straw hat

One particular summer straw hat was the sailor hat or boater hat. Men were wearing this style of hat already, and women had also worn them for the past few decades, especially when marching for the women’s right to vote. It had lost favor in the 1920s, but newer versions embraced the flat brim over the picture hat’s drooped brim. They were more minimally decorated with ribbon and a bow.

1922 mens style sailor hat
1922 mens style sailor hat
1922 sailor brim straw hat
1922 sailor brim straw hat

 

1920s Musketeer Hat

In 1921, the release of The Three Musketeers sparked a brief trend for ladies wearing the three-corner musketeer hat, also called a Cavalier hat. In the summer, they were made of straw and in the winter they were crafted from rich velvet. The bi-corn hat was perhaps even more popular, with the front brim folded up to create points on either side. Bi-corns often had a bow to one side or long dangling ribbon, feather, tassel or jewel.

1922 bicorn hat with abstract design
1922 bicorn hat with abstract design
1921 turn up brim straw hat and bicorn hat
1921 turn up brim straw hat and bicorn hat
1922 velvet musketeer hat with ostrich feather
1922 velvet musketeer hat with ostrich feather

The fold-up brim gave way to similar hats that lacked the two or three points. I refer to them as bucket hats because of the deep pull down crown, like a cloche hat, but with a wide brim that circled that crown. These were casual, sporty hats, that were frequently worn with middy blouses. Or they could be fancier street hats them made of rich materials and embellished with feathers.  They were usually made from any soft material, braided straw or shaped felt. The style remained popular in the first half of the 1920s only.

Various fold up brim buckets hats

Various fold up brim buckets hats- Around 1924

1924 white straw bucket
1924 white straw bucket
1922 summer bicorn bucket hat made from rows of ribbon
1922 summer bicorn bucket made from rows of ribbon

1922 spring bucket hats

1922 spring bucket hats

 

1920s Tam O’Shanter Hat

The Tam O’Shanter hat was another floppy hat along the lines of the beret and turban. It had Scottish roots as a hat worn by both sexes, but as a fashion item it was just for the females.  The Tam was especially popular with teens and young women in winter as well as summer. It was made famous by the film star Clara Bow in the early ’20s.

Easily knit or sewn from wool, velvet, or felt, it was a cheap hat to own. Teens could make enough Tams to go with every outfit and every season. They were certainly a young flapper’s favorite hat.

1920 winter tam hats
1920 winter tam hats
1920s girl with tam hat (R)
1920s girl with tam hat (R)

1922 summer tam hat
Summer tam hat
1927 tam hats looked like turbans
1927 tam hats looked like turbans

1922 hats for women
1922 Tam O’Shanter Wool Hat with Embroidered Design
1922 Tam O'shanter hats
1922 Tam O’Shanter Hat Made of Braided Straw

1920s Sporty Beret

1921 middy beret pd

Military Style French Beret Commonly Worn with Sailor Tops

1922 beret hat

1922 beret hat

The Beret had been popular for a number of years already. It was another hat loved by young girls and trendy teens. Floppy felt or fabric was held low on the head with either a traditional thin leather band or wide knit band in winter.

It had a sporty look, which made it ideal to wear with sailor tops, knit sweaters, plaid skirts, and horseback riding uniforms among other sports.

In the later years, the beret turned into the French style with a narrow matching band and a tip at the top. Angora fur, chenille, and other fuzzy materials made unique winter berets for children and teens. All colors were available to coordinate with the brighter fashions of the late 1920s.

1920s hat styles

1927 Red Beret Hat

1920s Toque Hats

1920s toque hat

Elaine Hammerstein in a Toque Hat

Toque hats, often fashioned out of stiff panels, were worn on top of the head rather than down around the forehead like most other ’20s hats. They were the hat choice of mature wealthy ladies and those who preferred not to look like a flapper. The flapper also adopted the Toque, moving it down their foreheads and embellishing it with beads, sequins, metallic embroidery, and precious stones. In heavy winter, Toques were wrapped and lined in fur.

1920s Turbans

1920s Turban hat
Silk turban hat with tassel
1920s turban hats
Bronze turban crown hat

Turbans were a good alternative to cloche and toque hats.  Turbans were basically pieces of cloth wrapped horizontally around the head. When done properly and accessorized with just the right feathers or jewels, the turban could be a very glamorous look. It was one of the only hat styles worn with formal evening attire that could also be shaped into a daytime hat.

1924 evening turban
1924 evening turban
Hair scarf shaped like a turban with flower
Hair scarf shaped like a turban with flower

The turban could be pre-made or wrapped using a long headscarf like this:

1926 how to tie a turban hat scarf headwrap

1926 how to tie a turban

1920s Cloche Hats

“Bobbed hats for women with bobbed hair.”

Of course, the iconic hat of the Jazz Age was the cloche, which is French for “bell.” Its popularity began around 1925, dominating hat style well into the 1930s.

A woman needed to have a small head and a short “bobbed” haircut to fit under the ever-increasing tightness. These close-fitting hats were worn low over the eyebrows, making visibility difficult. Women walked with their chins up and eyes cast down creating an air of conceitedness or feminine independence.

1920s cloche hat red 1928 velvet embroidered cloche hat
1928 velvet embroidered cloche hat
1928 fabric cloche hat
1928 fabric cloche

1928 decorated brim cloche hat
1928 decorated brim cloche
1928 felt cloche with ribbon
1928 felt cloche with ribbon

The brims of the hats were so slight that the New York Times called them “an apology for a brim.” Starting in 1924, brims were a mere 2 inches at most. Some curled up, some angled out like a mini visor, and still others pointed down. By the end of the decade, brims were non-existent. The bell-like fit was now a true helmet.

1928 cloche hats- most are brimless

1928 cloche hats- narrow brims or brimless

To keep the tight appearance of the cloche, decorations were usually kept to a minimum with ribbon trim and embroidery daintily applied to the right side. Fans of bows, small clusters of feathers, a single large feather, or jeweled hatpin were common decorations.

In many later cloche styles, the side brims came down over one or both ears, which allowed more room for larger decorations. They often featured intricate embroidery, Art Deco geometric shapes, jewels, or ribbons. Those ribbons sometimes carried coded messages for those in the know. Ribbons tied like an arrow signified that the woman had given her love to another, a firm knot meant that the woman was married, and a bow meant that a woman had some openings on her dance card!

Joan Crawford art deco cloche hat 1920s
Joan Crawford art deco cloche hat
Vilma Banky 1927 wave brim cloche hat
Vilma Banky 1927 wave brim cloche

Louise Brooks, "cootie garage" cloche 1920s hat
Louise Brooks, “cootie garage” cloche
Aileen Pringle, brimmed cloche 1920s hat
Aileen Pringle, brimmed cloche

Cloche hats were worn throughout the year, so they could be made from straw or cloth, depending on the season. Straw hats came in various lightweight waves or braids in the summer months. If a straw hat lasted through one season, it was trendy to paint them in next season’s colors. Agatha Christie described in her autobiography how she painted hats and added new trims to refresh the look each year. Even fabric hats could easily be redecorated with new trim and a reshaping of the brim.

1920s womens cloche hats

Lovely Ladies in Cloche Hats

Hats for All Heads

1920s hats for plus size women

1928 cloche hat for full faces

“A face that is very round and full at the lower half must wear a hat that gives prominence to the upper part; but a woman with a large forehead and thin face should wear narrow hats that come rather over the forehead. A round face looks well in a wide brim; if short, a high crown is best; but a tall girl should select a low crown. A girl with fluffy hair can wear a hat that turns away from the head, but hair dressed close to the head should have the hat fitting well over it at the sides. The hat must always look as if it was a part of the wearer, not as if it had dropped on that head by mistake. A little study will soon teach any woman what is best suited to herself; and the opinion of others is not to be despised.” – The Complete Dressmaker: With Simple Directions for Home Millinery, 1917

There were lengthy articles for women advising the best kind of hat to cover “flaws and imperfections.” In addition to the above:

  • Mature women should choose wider brim hats
  • Round faces should wear hats with tall feathers
  • Thin faces need decorations balanced on either side
  • Square jaw faces benefit from decoration placed on one side only
  • Large noses should be balanced by decorations placed in the center of the forehead or fold up brim
  • Dark-haired ladies look best with a narrow brim or brimless hats
  • Light haired ladies need a downturned brim

Read more fashion advice for your face and body type here.

Buying 1920s Hats

Women's 1920s style hats, cloche hats, Gatsby hats, Miss Fishers Murder Mystery hat, Downton Abbey hat styles. Shop at VintageDancer.com

Women’s 1920s style hats: Cloche, turban, beret, straw, bucket hats

Since the trend in the 1920s was to redecorate a hat every season, a woman only needed to buy one or two solid color 1920s style hats. You, too, can start with a simple cloche hat and add your own embellishments. Use the catalog images above as your inspiration or choose one of these simple ribbon techniques.

Most women will choose a cloche hat for a ’20s event – black felt in winter or a natural straw in summer. These are great choices, but don’t be afraid to choose something unique such as a velvet turban, wide brim picture hat, bucket hat, or straw boater.

Don’t be afraid to choose a contrasting color, too. Women’s hats usually did not match dresses, but may have coordinated with one other accessory or trim on the dress.

Here are some new hats in the 1920s style:

1920s Hat Styles for Women- History Beyond the Cloche Hat Clara Cloche $36.25 AT vintagedancer.com
BollmanHatCo
$36.25
1920s Hat Styles for Women- History Beyond the Cloche Hat THE SWANSON 1920S DECO EVENING TURBAN - BLACK CROWN $49.95 AT vintagedancer.com
DecoHaus
$49.95
1920s Hat Styles for Women- History Beyond the Cloche Hat Decorative Flowers Wool Beret Maitose Trade Womens Decorative Flowers Wool Beret $28.40 AT vintagedancer.com
Amazon
$28.40
1920s Hat Styles for Women- History Beyond the Cloche Hat Bellady Women Solid Color Winter Hat 100% Wool Cloche Bucket with Bow Accent $21.99 AT vintagedancer.com
Amazon
$21.99
1920s Hat Styles for Women- History Beyond the Cloche Hat Sakkas Marilyn Vintage Style Wool Cloche Bucket Winter Hat with Satin Flower $24.99 AT vintagedancer.com
Amazon
$24.99
1920s Hat Styles for Women- History Beyond the Cloche Hat Maitose Womens Wool Felt Flowers Church Bowler Hats $31.10 AT vintagedancer.com
Amazon
$31.10
1920s Hat Styles for Women- History Beyond the Cloche Hat Vintage 20s 30s 50s Twist Pleated Velvet Knotted Stretch Turban Hat Head Wrap $10.99 AT vintagedancer.com
Amazon
$10.99
1920s Hat Styles for Women- History Beyond the Cloche Hat Linen 8 Panel Applejack Gatsby newsboy IVY Hat $10.95 AT vintagedancer.com
Amazon
$10.95
1920s Hat Styles for Women- History Beyond the Cloche Hat Bellady Women Solid Color Winter Hat 100% Wool Cloche Bucket with Bow Accent $20.99 AT vintagedancer.com
Amazon
$20.99
1920s Hat Styles for Women- History Beyond the Cloche Hat SEWING PATTERN - Lucille 1920s Twenties Cloche Hat for Child or AdultSEWING PATTERN - Lucille 1920s Twenties Cloche Hat for Child or Adult $14.00 AT vintagedancer.com
Etsy
$14.00
1920s Hat Styles for Women- History Beyond the Cloche Hat Maitose® Womens Bow Flowers Wool Felt Bowler Hat $33.70 AT vintagedancer.com
Amazon
$33.70
1920s Hat Styles for Women- History Beyond the Cloche Hat Lady French Beret Wool Beret Chic Beanie Winter Hat Jf-br034 $21.99 AT vintagedancer.com
Amazon
$21.99
1920s Hat Styles for Women- History Beyond the Cloche Hat Womens Bucket Hats - A New Day Natural One Size Ivory $16.99 AT vintagedancer.com
Target
$16.99
1920s Hat Styles for Women- History Beyond the Cloche Hat  Velvet Turban Hat $16.99 AT vintagedancer.com
Amazon
$16.99
1920s Hat Styles for Women- History Beyond the Cloche Hat Bellady Women Solid Color Winter Hat 100% Wool Cloche Bucket with Bow Accent $21.99 AT vintagedancer.com
Amazon
$21.99
1920s Hat Styles for Women- History Beyond the Cloche Hat elope Fantastic Beasts Where to Find Them Tina Goldstein Costume Cloche Hat for Women $24.95 AT vintagedancer.com
Amazon
$24.95
1920s Hat Styles for Women- History Beyond the Cloche Hat 1910’s - 1920’s Metropolitan Hat Pattern $12.95 AT vintagedancer.com
Amazon
$12.95
1920s Hat Styles for Women- History Beyond the Cloche Hat Womens Bucket Newsboy Cabbie Beret Cap Cloche Bucket Fashion Sun Hats $17.99 AT vintagedancer.com
Amazon
$17.99
1920s Hat Styles for Women- History Beyond the Cloche Hat BABEYOND Gatsby Turban Hat Vintage 1920s Head Wrap Knit Pleated Turban 20s Cap $15.99 AT vintagedancer.com
Amazon
$15.99
1920s Hat Styles for Women- History Beyond the Cloche Hat Devon Violets Hat $49.95 AT vintagedancer.com
VictorianTradingCo
$49.95
1920s Hat Styles for Women- History Beyond the Cloche Hat Summer cloche hat Summer hat 20s hat Sun hat Retro hat 20s style hat Vintage hat Handmade hat Wedding hat Event hat By size hat $132.58 AT vintagedancer.com
Etsy
$132.58
1920s Hat Styles for Women- History Beyond the Cloche Hat VECRY Women Wool Beret Angola Knit Beanie Skull Cap Dress Winter Hats £19.87 AT vintagedancer.com
AmazonUK
£19.87
1920s Hat Styles for Women- History Beyond the Cloche Hat  SEWING PATTERN  Daryn 1920s Twenties Cloche Hat for Child  $10.50 AT vintagedancer.com
Etsy
$10.50
1920s Hat Styles for Women- History Beyond the Cloche Hat Misses Hats in Three Sizes A (Small-Medium-Large) Simplicity Creative Patterns 1736  $11.45 AT vintagedancer.com
Amazon
$11.45
1920s Hat Styles for Women- History Beyond the Cloche Hat Womens Wool Church Dress Cloche Hat Plumy Felt Bucket Winter Hat $30.99 AT vintagedancer.com
Amazon
$30.99
1920s Hat Styles for Women- History Beyond the Cloche Hat WETOO Women Chemo Hat Beanie Flower Headscarf Turban Headwear for Cancer $7.99 AT vintagedancer.com
Amazon
$7.99
1920s Hat Styles for Women- History Beyond the Cloche Hat  Decorative Flowers Wool Beret $28.40 AT vintagedancer.com
Amazon
$28.40
1920s Hat Styles for Women- History Beyond the Cloche Hat Maitose Womens Wool Felt Flowers Church Bowler Hats $29.99 AT vintagedancer.com
Amazon
$29.99
1920s Hat Styles for Women- History Beyond the Cloche Hat Jeff & Aimy Women Winter Wool Bucket Hat 1920s Vintage Cloche Bowler Hat with Bow/Flower Accent $22.99 AT vintagedancer.com
Amazon
$22.99
1920s Hat Styles for Women- History Beyond the Cloche Hat Maitose Womens Decorative Flowers Wool Beret $24.99 AT vintagedancer.com
Amazon
$24.99
1920s Hat Styles for Women- History Beyond the Cloche Hat Womens Wool Church Dress Cloche Hat Plumy Felt Bucket Winter Hat $24.99 AT vintagedancer.com
Amazon
$24.99
1920s Hat Styles for Women- History Beyond the Cloche Hat Josephine Wool Cloche $139.95 AT vintagedancer.com
VictorianTradingCo
$139.95
1920s Hat Styles for Women- History Beyond the Cloche Hat DANTIYA Womens 100% Wool Cloche Hat Bucket Floral Winter Vintage Beret Beanie Hat $13.99 AT vintagedancer.com
Amazon
$13.99
1920s Hat Styles for Women- History Beyond the Cloche Hat Cloche Round Hat for Women 1920s Fedora Bucket Vintage Hat Flower Accent $21.99 AT vintagedancer.com
Amazon
$21.99
1920s Hat Styles for Women- History Beyond the Cloche Hat VECRY Lady French Beret - 100% Wool Beret Dress Beanie Winter Hat £18.87 AT vintagedancer.com
AmazonUK
£18.87
1920s Hat Styles for Women- History Beyond the Cloche Hat Chemo Headwear Turbans Long Hair Head Scarf Headwraps Cancer Hats for Hair Loss $7.99 AT vintagedancer.com
Amazon
$7.99
1920s Hat Styles for Women- History Beyond the Cloche Hat Maitose Womens Wool Felt Flowers Church Bowler Hats $31.10 AT vintagedancer.com
Amazon
$31.10
1920s Hat Styles for Women- History Beyond the Cloche Hat Lulu Vintage Inspired Flapper Cap in Lilac $33.03 AT vintagedancer.com
Amazon
$33.03
1920s Hat Styles for Women- History Beyond the Cloche Hat Vintage Hat Patten 1920s Flapper  CLOCHE Turban e-Patterns PDF (Marjorie Set) $3.99 AT vintagedancer.com
Etsy
$3.99
1920s Hat Styles for Women- History Beyond the Cloche Hat Kathy Jeanne Caroline Cloche $149.95 AT vintagedancer.com
VictorianTradingCo
$149.95
1920s Hat Styles for Women- History Beyond the Cloche Hat SIGGI Cloche Round Hat For Women 1920s Fedora Bucket Vintage Hat Flower Accent $19.98 AT vintagedancer.com
Amazon
$19.98
1920s Hat Styles for Women- History Beyond the Cloche Hat Women Solid Color Winter Hat 100% Wool Cloche Bucket with Bow Accent $23.96 AT vintagedancer.com
Amazon
$23.96
1920s Hat Styles for Women- History Beyond the Cloche Hat Koolas Lady Wedding Hats Kentucky Ascot Race Derby Hat Tea Party Cocktail $45.00 AT vintagedancer.com
Amazon
$45.00
1920s Hat Styles for Women- History Beyond the Cloche Hat Maya Cloche $22.50 AT vintagedancer.com
BollmanHatCo
$22.50
1920s Hat Styles for Women- History Beyond the Cloche Hat Womens Gatsby Linen Cloche Hat With Lace Band And Flower $23.99 AT vintagedancer.com
Amazon
$23.99
1920s Hat Styles for Women- History Beyond the Cloche Hat Lawliet Womens Straw Boater Hat Fedora Panama Flat Top Ribbon Summer A456 $10.99 AT vintagedancer.com
Amazon
$10.99
1920s Hat Styles for Women- History Beyond the Cloche Hat Zonsaoja Cloche Round Hat for Women Beanie Flower Dress Church Elegant British $17.59 AT vintagedancer.com
Amazon
$17.59
1920s Hat Styles for Women- History Beyond the Cloche Hat Tobe-U Cloche Bucket Bowler Fedora Floppy Derby Vintage Felt Hat Cap Women $9.99 AT vintagedancer.com
Amazon
$9.99
1920s Hat Styles for Women- History Beyond the Cloche Hat Felizhouse Fascinator Feathers Headband for Women Kentucky Derby Wedding Tea Party Headwear Girls Flapper Headpiece $8.99 AT vintagedancer.com
Amazon
$8.99
1920s Hat Styles for Women- History Beyond the Cloche Hat Willa Braided Cloche $24.00 AT vintagedancer.com
BollmanHatCo
$24.00
1920s Hat Styles for Women- History Beyond the Cloche Hat Wide Brim Floppy Hat Sakkas Bella UPF 50+ 100% Paper Straw Flower Accent Wide Brim Floppy Hat  AT vintagedancer.com
Amazon
1920s Hat Styles for Women- History Beyond the Cloche Hat Bellady Women Solid Color Winter Hat 100% Wool Cloche Bucket with Bow Accent $21.99 AT vintagedancer.com
Amazon
$21.99
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debbie
We are Debbie and Oscar, your guides to dressing up like decades past. We are here to help you find clothing online and learn about vintage fashions as worn by everyday people, just like you. Need help with your outfit? Ask us anytime.
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Comments

  1. Charlotte says

    April 18, 2017 at 2:15 pm

    Hi Debbie,
    Where did you get your information about the Musketeer hat? I am doing a dissertation on 1920s fashion and literature. In The Great Gatsby, Daisy wears what is described as a ‘three cornered hat’ and I am looking for some more information about this.
    Charlotte

    • VintageDancer says

      April 18, 2017 at 2:49 pm

      From a variety of books, catalogs and online references. Look here: https://vintagedancer.com/vintage/research-fashion-history/ and here: https://vintagedancer.com/vintage/vintage-fashion-history-books/

  2. Sapphire says

    April 14, 2016 at 8:51 am

    Hi Debbie, i would like to know it’d be possible to know when this article was written, i’m using your article as a source for a paper.

    • VintageDancer says

      April 14, 2016 at 10:45 am

      Sep 12, 2013

  3. Pat Schwab says

    July 18, 2015 at 1:40 pm

    Hats off to you for another great post. Sorry I couldn’t resist.

    • Debbie Sessions says

      July 20, 2015 at 7:48 am

      LOL. Thank you for reading and enjoying.

  4. Nichole says

    September 8, 2014 at 8:05 am

    Hi Debbie! I think I may have been born in the wrong era, because I absolutely would have loved to live and thrive in the late 1800’s into the early 1900’s! I will just have to settle for being born in 1981, and keep dreaming I live at Highclere! Lol I was actually wondering if you could help me with something special for my daughter Emily who is turning ten in October. She has asked for her birthday this year to go to the Tea Room. It’s a beautiful Victorian house themed and decorated perfectly to bring visitors back in time. We will enjoy a 5 course tea and luncheon. All of the woman in the family will be present each wearing their best in oldest fashion. I was hoping for some pointers for dress for Emily and myself for our outing. I have searched through your site and gathered too many ideas! I would like to keep it simple, or moreless wear similarly what would have been worn during those times for tea:) Any help is much appreciated!! Thank you!

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