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Vintage Dancer | 1940s Fashion | 1940s Coats & Jackets Fashion History

1940s Coats & Jackets Fashion History

1940s Fashion History

5 Dec 2013

1940s coats womens ladiesThe weather turned a bit nippy this week, which always sends me to my coat closet for my best winter outerwear. I am very happy to be warm and cozy in my modern technical fabric, lightweight, wind, and water resistant snow coat except that, well, it’s not very pretty. Compared to vintage ladies’ coats from the 1920s to the 1960s, the style is anything but glamorous. When I do get a chance to wear one of my vintage coats or vintage inspired coats, I am a happy woman! See why vintage style coats, especially women’s 1940s coats and jackets, are both practical and beautiful!

1940s Coat Styles

1940s coats during the war years were restricted by L-85, but there weren’t many rules. Coats could not have a bi-swing back, could not have more than two pockets, and had a limitation on sleeve circumference that really only eliminated exaggerated sleeve types, such as the bell shaped Dolman sleeve that was popular in the 1930s.  Most coats were made from wool and rayon-wool blends, and many re-purposed wool from used coats and wool blankets.

1940 coats: The Wrap, Reefer and Hollywood

1940 coats: The Wrap, Reefer and Hollywood- three style carried over from the 1930s

Linings were made of rayon crepe or satin. Most coats followed the same basic style with a few alternatives. They were long, coming to just below the knee, and were frequently made in herringbone, tan, grey, dark green, navy, and red, among other winter colors. They were generally without decoration and all had large square shoulder pads. The look was borrowed from men’s military coats.

Trench Coats

1944 double breasted trench coat with tie belt

1944 double breasted trench coat with tie belt

One popular men’s and women’s style was the wool trench coat also called a wrap coat. It was somewhat loose-fitting, but not over sized. It had a wide pointed collar and one or two rows of buttons down the front. A belt about two inches thick tied or buckled at the waist. The trench usually had two slit pockets on the sides.

1944 blue wrap trench coat ladies at VintageDancer
1944 blue wrap trench coat
1945 yellow wrap trench coat and blue belted short coat
1945 yellow wrap trench coat and blue belted short coat

The men’s Chesterfield coat had a female counterpart too. It had wide peak lapels with a contrasting black trim along the back neck piece and sometimes pockets. It would come in all classic men’s style coat silhouettes as long as it had black trim.

1943 teacher wears a Chesterfield coat in New Mexico
1943 teacher wears a Chesterfield coat in New Mexico
1944 women red and brown coats at VintageDancer
1944 red and brown Chesterfield coats

The Reefer coat was another classic coat from the 20s and 30s. It was similar to a trench coat but lacked the belt or pointed collar. Instead, it had wide peak lapels or collar, two buttons at the waist or single or double rows of buttons down the front, and an A-line skirt. The waist was pulled in through expert tailoring, always showing off an hourglass silhouette. They favored early ’40s fabric like tweed, heavy wool, and plaid patterns. It was still common during the war years, but was regarded as too old-fashioned by the mid ’40s.

1940 reefer coats for teens
1940 reefer coats for teens
1940 tweed reefer coats and a plaid swagger coat
1940 tweed reefer coats and a plaid swagger coat

1940 reefer coat and box coat
1940 reefer coat and box coat
1945 yellow reefer coat ladies winter coats at VintageDancer
1945 yellow chesterfield reefer coat and teal man-ish coat

Man-ish Coats

Man tailored or boy coats made up the bulk of women’s outerwear. Like most fashion of the early 40s, men’s clothing, including overcoats were adapted to women. They had oversize lapels and collars and single row of buttons down the front. Shoulder were padded with a puff sleeve during the war and no puff after the war. Pockets were also large and buttons were statement pieces.  Navy blue, sky blue, yellow, brown, hunter green, red, black were common colors. In the later years pink, burgundy and teal-blue-green were the latest fashions.

1945 women's blue coat at VintageDancer
1945 blue coat
1945 women's green coat and suit at VintageDancer
1945 green coat and suit

1944 navy blue coat women WW2 at VintageDancer
1944 navy blue coat
1945 ladies coats, man tailored brown chesterfield coat
1945 man tailored brown chesterfield coat

Box Coats

One of the most iconic coat styles of the ’40s and ’50s  was the polo coat or box coat. It was cut very straight and wide, in the shape of a box, and was oversized. They hung open like in the ones pictured, or buttoned closed with large, covered buttons. Box coats hung down just to the mid hip, making them good lightweight coats for fall and spring or nice evening wear when made of velvet or exotic fur. It wasn’t uncommon for a dress or suit to come with a matching box coat for a fully coordinated look.

1940s fashion coats
1947 box coats in half lengths are better then long coats
1940 fur box coat women's 1940s at VintageDancer
1940 fur box coat

A long version of the box coat was the swagger or flare back coat. It fit wide and boxy but came down to below the thigh or knee. In the mid to late ’40s, the back of the coat often had flared swing pleats coming from the nape of the neck. This allowed extra movement and more room for clothing underneath. The front of the coat resembled most other 50s man-ish coats.

1948 pink flare back coat and hooded coat
1948 pink flare back coat and hooded coat
1948 flare back box coats
1948 flare back plaid box coats

In warmer weather, box and swagger coats came in lighter fabrics. Made of light wool, cotton, or rayon blends, they often came with a matching skirt, but women wore them mismatched with plain skirts, house dresses, and dressy pants.

Dottie Reid wears a summer weigh check box coat in 1948

Dottie Reid wears a summer weigh check box coat in 1948

Another style of coat swagger coat in the late 40s, was slightly more fitted through the waist and flared out slightly from there. A belt strung through part of the back, leaving the pleats to hang free.  It was to become the swing coat in the 1950s. The collar was pointed or oversized Peter Pan collar.  This type of coat also sometimes had a fur collar, with fox (or rabbit dyed to look like fox) being the most popular. The fur collar would look like a small shawl draped over the top of the coat. Fur-trimmed coats were dressier and often had cloth-covered buttons or a cloth belt.

1949 swing swagger coat with belt

Fur Coats

Fur coats were worn in the same shapes as the fabric coats above. The box coat and swagger style looked best with a thick fox, sable, or seal fur. Sleeves were wide and open and collars were high and closed with a longer hair fur piece trimming the collar. To keep with the simple and polished style, of fur coats only had two or three buttons or clasps to keep the coat closed. Some box styles only had a single clasp at the neckline. Pockets were hidden slashes on the coat sides. The beauty of the fur must be the showcase of a woman’s 1940s coat!

1943 Persian lamb coat
1946 fur coat


Fur stoles were also used to accent winter wool coats. They could be large round or square collars, or long wraps like a scarf. For the rich, an entire animal was worn draped across the shoulders, complete with head and feet. This was largely out of style in the frugal ’40s. Women who wore them kept them from the ’30s, and only worn them in the cities or to fancy occasions.

1940s animal fur stole and matching bag
Early 1940s animal fur stole and matching bag
1948 long fur stole
1948 long fur stole

1944 fur collars stoles pieces wraps at VintageDancer

1944 fur collars

1940s Raincoats

New inventions during and after the war led to new treatments for waterproofing fabrics. However, most 1940s raincoats were made of cotton Gabardine. They were mostly turned into rain capes or simple utility coats with padded shoulders, wide lapels and collars, and big belts forming the typical masculine/military shape. Hemlines rose to just below the knee (their legs must have always been cold and wet) and colors dulled down into drab military hues. What is remarkable about the 1940s is the new coat styles that emerged during the decade have stayed with us ever since.

1940s rain coat; (middle) wrap coat in black, (R) trench coat, (L) semi trench box coat

1940s raincoat; (middle) wrap coat in black, (R) trench coat, (L) semi trench box coat

The utility coat or shop coat was a practical but not too pretty raincoat. The trench coat was the newest style and one that is a still a classic today. The wrap coat was the most feminine design. Read more about vintage raincoats.

1943 rain coat/poncho
1943 rain coat/poncho
1946 belted rain coats

1940s umbrellas were a necessary rain accessory that came in bold patterns. Brown, red, navy, black, wine, green plaids were the most common. Printed patterns on rayon or oil silk were the most rainproof. Most umbrellas came with a C-curved or knob bakelite handle in wood tones. Cheaper umbrellas had wood handles.

1940s plaid umbrellas

1940s plaid umbrellas

1940s Casual Jackets

1941 shortie coats- boxy coats and pea coat style

While long coats were best for staying warm in dresses and looking presentable, there were also outerwear choices for casual looks. The casual jacket looked a lot like jackets that came with women’s 2 piece suits. In fact, many women wore them interchangeably.  The sports jacket was a man-tailored blazer that fell just over the hips. It had padded shoulders, notch lapels, 3 center buttons and two large front flap pockets. It paired well with white blouses, skirts, and trousers.

1947 womens fashion tailored jackets and skirts for fall

1947 tailored jackets and skirts for fall

Winter varieties were made of wool in large plaid, check, or solid colors. Wearing a solid jacket with a plaid skirt or plaid jacket with the solid skirt was a very popular combination for most of the decade.

1940 womens jackets, short coats, wool blazers/sportcoats
1940 wool blazers/sportcoats
1941 Mackinaw belted plaid jackets
1941 Mackinaw belted plaid jackets

Plaid work shirts worn over pants, jeans, and overalls was an all too common look for teens, working Rosies, and Land Army girls. They were thick jacket-like men’s style shirts, worn untucked and layered over knitwear.

Plaid work-shirt worn like jackets
Plaid work-shirt worn like jackets
1947 plaid work-shirt for women Rosies
1947 plaid work-shirt

Summer jacket varieties usually matched summer weight cotton and linen pantsuits, shorts and other casual clothes. The striped blazer was especially becoming in summer, giving a nod back to men’s boater jackets worn at the turn of the century.

There was also the utility coat made of suede or fleece and the collarless knit jersey, which was a combination sweater and jacket. Sweaters made excellent spring and summer jacket alternatives.

1944 semi-casual summer jackets
1944 casual jackets in box, utility, sweater and blazer styles
1947 solid and striped blazer-jacket
1947 solid and striped blazer-jackets

Other casual jackets took on the shape of long overcoats but were cropped to hip level. The box coat became a casual style when made of textured fleece or chenille. These “jackettes” looked a lot like bed jackets!

1941 Jackettes

1941 Jackettes made of textured chenille and knits

 

Winter Sport Jackets

1943 winter ski jackets

1943 winter ski jackets

Women who enjoyed outdoor snow sports like skiing or who lived in very cold and wet climates would have turned to a sports jacket for their everyday wear. Similar to ski clothing in the 1930s, women’s sport jackets were short in length with a zip up or button up closure and a pulled in waist, often with the help of a drawstring belt or gathered elastic sides. Quilted versions allowed multiple layers of warm fabric to be stitched together without much bulk. The outer fabric was made from a water and wind resistant cotton twill or gaberdine. Heavy wool could also be used — after all, it was naturally water repellent. Bright colors were the most visible on the ski slopes, although natural tans and browns were worn too, especially at home.

1940s Women's Outdoor Jackets

1940s Outdoor Jackets

Waterproof outdoor coats like these above were similar to ski jackets yet without the tight waist. They hung boxy with high collars and large flap pockets. Made of gabardine, they mimicked the men’s casual jacket but with a slight taper at the waist and a more feminine cut collar. Some were light windbreakers, others were rugged with a sherpa, wool, or cotton flannel lining.

Other casual mens jackets were adapted for women such as a leather,  plaid wool or gaberdine bomber jacket. These had an ribbed knit waist and cuffs with fold out collar and two side pockets.  The plaid shirt-jacket or gaberdine zip up shirt jacket, aka “gab” jacket, were also made for women. Like mostly casual wear they were geared for working outdoors.

1948 bomber, gaberdine, shirt-jacket and cotton zip jacket- all styles taken from menswear

1948 bomber, gaberdine, shirt-jacket and cotton zip jacket- all styles taken from menswear

The final outdoor casual jacket worn by women in the early 1940s was the all-leather jacket. Lightly lined and short, with a tapered waist or belt, they were a nice final layer over a warm sweater or knit top. They were casual yet stylish enough to be worn with skirts or trousers. Most colors were natural medium or dark brown, but green suede and chamois red or tan were also options. The leather jacket was another carryover style form the ’30s that quickly disappeared for most of the ’40s. They returned again in the 1950s in bright colors and shorter lengths.

1943 leather jackets

1943 colored suede and leather jackets

1946 leather jackets
1946 leather jackets
1946 Suede jacket (love the western fringe on the green)
1946 Suede jacket (love the western fringe on the green)

 

Keep learning. Read about the next wave of outerwear in the 1950s here.

Shop 1940s Style Coats:

1940s Coats & Jackets Fashion History Vintage inspired Long wool coat Winter coat women Wool coat women fit and flare coat Double breasted wool coat Xiaolizi 1685# $179.00 AT vintagedancer.com
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1940s Coats & Jackets Fashion History Vintage inspired Mary Poppins coat Blue wool coat Long wool coat Winter coat women Wool coat women Double breasted wool coat 1685# $152.15 AT vintagedancer.com
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1940s Coats & Jackets Fashion History Houndstooth Corset Coat Extra Small $129.99 AT vintagedancer.com
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1940s Coats & Jackets Fashion History 43
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1940s Coats & Jackets Fashion History THE 1930S OSTRICH GLAMOUR BOUDOIR LOUNGING ROBE - BLACK NOIR $174.95 AT vintagedancer.com
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1940s Coats & Jackets Fashion History Mr. Water Retro Fitted Coat. Camel Coat. Wool Coat. Fall/Winter Special $169.00 AT vintagedancer.com
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1940s Coats & Jackets Fashion History Zeagoo Womens Double-Breasted Long Trench Coat with Belt $59.88 AT vintagedancer.com
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$39.99
1940s Coats & Jackets Fashion History Jessica London Womens Plus Size Wool-Blend Peplum Blazer Jacket $85.11 AT vintagedancer.com
Amazon
$85.11
1940s Coats & Jackets Fashion History Silver and Bold Plaid Jacket in- Long Sleeve by ModCloth $89.00 AT vintagedancer.com
Modcloth
$89.00
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debbie
We are Debbie and Oscar, your guides to dressing up like decades past. We are here to help you find clothing online and learn about vintage fashions as worn by everyday people, just like you. Need help with your outfit? Ask us anytime.
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Dressing in vintage style clothing for a themed event or personal fashion is our passion. We turned a hobby into this website to make it easy to find vintage inspired clothing for women and men online spanning 1900-1960s. Our fashion history blog helps you create the look from decades past using vintage, vintage inspired and thrifty clothing, Need help? Ask us anytime.

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