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Vintage Dancer | 1950s Fashion | 1950s Coats and Jackets History

1950s Coats and Jackets History

1950s Fashion History

14 Aug 2014

1950s coats jackets history1950s coats were beautifully constructed and varied slightly in styles, fabrics and design. Most coats were long, some coming all the way to the ankle and others just below the knee and others sat right around the hip. Typical fabrics included camel hair, wool velour, wool fleece, tweed, and fur or cashmere if you could afford it. Coats were often decorated with large buttons, belts or fur collars to add a little glamour to an otherwise simple design. Fur trimmings like beaver, lamb fur, astrakhan, and mink were all popular and a contrast lining on the inside was used to introduce interesting fashion features. 1950s coats and jackets usually were color coordinated with the rest of a woman’s ensemble. Shop for 50s style coats here. 

1950s Style Coats

Coats were usually either very fitted, semi-fitted, or full and swingy. The full coat was the most common style, although there was not a strict name for this style. For that matter, coat was not a common name in the ’50s. Instead, they were called toppers or top coats. Duster coat, Pea Coat, Long Coat, Swing Coat, Pyramid coat, Princess Coat, and Bell Coat were all used to identify ’50s full fitting coats.

1957 coats women

1957 full coats, princess fitted coat

Full coats had wide sleeves, a triangular shape, large cuffs, and collars and usually large buttons, too. They came in long (to mid shin) or short (hip lengths). As we know, the fifties are synonymous with full skirts, and dresses and skirts with a fuller bottom were easily worn with a coat that had a straight slim style. Also, after the war we saw a boom in births, so coats that were swing style were very roomy and worked well for women who were pregnant. This was one more step a woman could take to be out in public without “showing” too much. This was a radical step at the time.

1956 full coats to fit over full skirted dresses

1956 full coats to fit over full skirted dresses

Much like the desired figure of the fifties, many vintage coats had belts that accented the waist and flared at the bottom. Sometimes known as the princess style, these coats were feminine and figure-hugging. Popular colors were royal blue, dark red, gray, hunter green, dusty rose, black, and tan. Some coat sleeves had wide cuffs at the end or large covered buttons to add some decoration. Coats had buttons up the front, usually from the waist to the neck or just from the chest to the neck, and collars came up high to protect the back of the neck. Coats without buttons were a wrap over style similar to a trench coat.

1953 Trench Coat also called Princess Coat with Belt and full "skirt"

Trench Coat also called Princess Coat with Belt and full “skirt”

Many coats added pretty details with contrast stitching or embroidery, self-fabric belts, and decorative elaborate buttons. Most coats conveniently had hidden pockets. Coat collars came in all shapes and sizes, and some were made of fur. The round over-sized “peter pan” or “puritan style” collar was especially popular on 1950s coats. It helped make coats appear childlike or doll-like, which was the goal for women’s 1950s fashion.

As for any well-groomed woman of the fifties, it’s all about completing the look. That meant winter stockings, coordinating gloves, a matching hat, and usually a leather purse. A fur muff was borrowed from Victorian and earlier times and became a fashionable accessory to wear with furs or fur-trimmed coats (See photo under 1950s Fur Coats).

1957 Long Full Winter Coats and Half Coats with Matching Accessories

1957 Long Full Winter Coats and Half Coats with Matching Accessories

1950s Swing Coat

The swing coat or princess coat was neatly tailored and fit close to the body through the waist before widening at the bottom. It is the most common style available in repro and inspired 1950s clothing. Depending on the desired look, it usually had buttons from the chest to the waist or could be double breasted. Large pleats on the back added extra room for movement that “swung” as a woman walked, hence the swing coat name.

Sometimes with a belt and sometimes without, this style of coat was very flattering and mimicked the same hourglass shape that was popular at the time. The idea was to mimic the dress that was worn underneath the coat. It was also a style borrowed from Victorian ice skating coats.

1956 princess coat, swing coat, shawl coats
1956 princess coat, swing coat, shawl coats
1957 swing back and princess coats and tweed textures
1957 swing back and princess coats and tweed textures

In reverse, the coat dress was inspired by the swagger coat. It was a dress with double-breasted rows of buttons on the bodice and a full swing skirt. This style was only worn in the fall and winter. Read more about the coat dress here.

1950s Box Coat

Another style is the box coat or half coat, which is arguably one of the most iconic styles of the 1940s and ’50s. It hung very wide and straight, much like the shape of a box. They either hit at the bottom of a woman’s hips or went all the way to mid-thigh. The 1950s versions often had a fuller shape than the 1940s box coats. Large pleats at the back shoulder line created a swing coat-meets-box coat style.

Collars, pockets and buttons were large. Most came in solid colors: ivory/cream, black, blue, red, or brown. The only popular pattern available was checks. Fuzzy fabrics made for extra warm and cozy toppers.

1950s yellow topper
1950s yellow topper coat
1952 short coats women 1950s jackets
1952 short coats

1956 short "topper" coats
1956 short “topper” coats
1957 fuzzy toppers coats women 1950s
1957 fuzzy toppers

1950s Lightweight Spring Coats

1950s coats dresses

Lightweight Dress Coats for Spring and Fall.

Many coats that came as coordinated sets with dresses were not heavy winter coats. Instead, they were lightweight Spring and Fall top coats that came in many names such as Clutch coat or Tuxedo coat. They often did not have pointed collars, but instead folded shawl collars that ran the length of the long coat. They were made of lightweight wools, cotton blends, and new synthetics.

Unlike winter coats, sleeves were cut full but not wide, folded up to mid arm, and the amount of “swing” at the back was minimal so that the coat hung straight over a dress. They hardly ever had buttons to hold them close, exposing the dress underneath and the matching lining found inside the coat. Decorative embroidery was more likely seen on fashion coats than on winter coats.

1957 cape style spring coat
1957 cape style spring coat
1957 short sleeve dress coat
1957 short sleeve dress coat

1950s coats dresses
Lightweight coats with dresses
1959 light day coats
1959 day coats

1950s Fur Coats

Fur coats were glamorous and dressier than the everyday coat (for most people). They were cut in the same shapes as other coats of the fifties. The box coat and swagger style looked best with thick fox, sable, and seal fur. Faux furs were an option for the less affluent, as was cheap squirrel and marmot dyed to look like sable.

Sleeves were wide and open and collars were high and closed with a longer hair fur piece trimming the collar. To keep with the simple and polished style of fur coats, only two or three buttons or clasps kept the coat closed. Some box styles only had a single clasp at the neckline. Pockets were hidden slashes on the coat sides. The beauty (and wealth) of the woman must be showcased through her 1950s fur coat!

1957 fur collar coats
1957 fur collar coats
1959 faux mink fur coats
1959 faux mink fur coats

While most fur coats were full length or at least hip length, a few came in shorter waist length styles. The cape coat, popular in the 1940s, remained common into the 1950s as well. Coats like this short fur Diamond brand coat (below) became increasingly popular in the late ’50s and ’60s when styles favorited the slim sheath dress rather than the full circle dress.

Fur mink short coat 1950s

Fur mink short coat

For those who could not afford a full coat, fur stoles, muffs and shawls were a popular alternative. Fur trim on short or long jackets also added a touch of richness without the shocking price tag.

1956 mink fur wraps

1956 mink fur wraps

1950s Rain Coats

1950s raincoats were no longer just utilitarian and plain. They now came in fun patterns, such as the rain umbrellas in the below ad. They were made of a cotton + synthetic blended fabric for light waterproofing. Some were made of plastic (clear, color or patterned) that fit like a poncho hood and an elastic or wrap belt.  Non-rubberized raincoats existed in the form of waterproof tweed, corduroy and gabardine fabrics with an optional zip-in lining for warmth.  

1950s rain coat jacket women girls kids

1957 Long Rain Coats for Women and Girls

1950s raincoats mostly came in trench coat style with a single or double breast and belt. They often had matching hats, too. The above are Jockey style hats, while most others were detached hoods with the brim folded back (or not when raining). Popular colors were bright red, navy blue, medium blue, turquoise, and grey.

1956 trench and tweed box raincoats

1956 trench and tweed box raincoats

For the rebellious youth and especially art students, the trend was to wear black raincoats. These also became associated with prostitutes, although I don’t know why.  “Good women” chose brighter colors (pink, turquoise, red, yellow) and avoided dark colors, which were hard to be seen in the rain anyways. Read more details about vintage raincoats.

Late 1950s straight or tent shaped raincoats

Late 1950s straight or tent shaped raincoats

1950s Winter Jackets

While the most fashionable coat was the long coat or half coat, there were numerous needs for less formal, but very practical winter jackets called surcoats. Surcoat jackets were worn paired with long skirts or pants and were reserved for cold climates with excessive rain and snow. While useful, they were not entirely void of styles. Hip length, with tie belts and point or round collars, were trademarks of the ’50s. They came in warm quilted lined flannel, cotton or fur insides with leather, faux leather, tweed or corduroy exteriors.

1955 sporty jackets
1955 sporty jackets
1956 winter casual jackets
1956 winter casual jackets

1959 spring jackets
1959 spring jackets
1959 winter hooded jackets
1959 winter hooded jackets

Less winter friendly jackets had a fashionable style all of their own. Many were influenced by western styles and featured fringe leather, plaid patterns, and leather or suede looking materials. The corduroy western blazer was adopted from menswear as well as some 40s styles. It was smart, casual, and paired well with slacks or a plain skirt.

1950s jackets womens

1950s Jackets- western with fringe, suede belted, motorcycle, lined surcoat, plaid surcoat, corduroy double breasted surcoat.

The yellow “motorcycle” jacket below, top, right, was another style borrowed from menswear. It usually came in a colorful leather but could also be made of cotton poplin or gabardine, just like a men’s bomber jacket. It was lighter in weight and usually worn in spring in classic men’s colors: navy, red, blue, or green.

The poodle jacket was a fuzzy winter crop jacket with a wrap over design. It had large dolman sleeves and a narrow waistband. It looked best paired with suits and pencil dresses.

1950s Short casual jackets - Western, motorcycle, wrap dolman

Short casual jackets – Western, bomber, poodle

Coat shopping advice from the 1950s – Buying women’s coats and suits (circa 1954) eBook online.

1950s Style Coats for Sale

Every winter, a handful of vintage reproduction jackets and long coats are sold. They are often more fashionable than warm for very cold climates, so I prefer looking for vintage or classic coats and jackets in more durable materials such as trench coats, tweed jackets, wool overcoats, and suede bomber jackets. Adding a faux fur collar can instantly transform a classic coat into a vintage treasure.

My vintage overcoat with fur collar
My newish vintage overcoat with fur collar
Vintage 50s coat outfit
Vintage 50s coat outfit

Shop 50s style coats and jackets

1950s Coats and Jackets History Hell Bunny 1960S Light Blue  Ivory Plaid Milicent Coat $298.00 AT vintagedancer.com
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1950s Coats and Jackets History CURLBIUTY Women Swing Double Breasted Wool Pea Coat Winter Long Overcoat Jacket $69.99 AT vintagedancer.com
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$69.99
1950s Coats and Jackets History MARILYN coat - tv inspired swing dress colorblock rockabilly vintage custom $110.00 AT vintagedancer.com
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$110.00
1950s Coats and Jackets History Houndstooth Corset Coat Extra Small $129.99 AT vintagedancer.com
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$129.99
1950s Coats and Jackets History Double breasted wool coat midi wool coat fit and flared coat cashmere wool coat vintage coat winter coat 1950s coat | Linennaive $179.00 AT vintagedancer.com
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1950s Coats and Jackets History Monica coat - vintage tv inspired coat custom made $110.00 AT vintagedancer.com
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1950s Coats and Jackets History 43
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1950s Coats and Jackets History Hearts and Roses Fiona Detachable Faux Fur Collar Flared Coat  AT vintagedancer.com
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1950s Coats and Jackets History THE 1930S OSTRICH GLAMOUR BOUDOIR LOUNGING ROBE - BLACK NOIR $174.95 AT vintagedancer.com
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1950s Coats and Jackets History Liz Claiborne Heavyweight Overcoat Plus 3x  Black $89.99 AT vintagedancer.com
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1950s Coats and Jackets History Mr. Water Retro Fitted Coat. Camel Coat. Wool Coat. Fall/Winter Special $169.00 AT vintagedancer.com
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1950s Coats and Jackets History Dark womens coat in black velvet flock and black fur by Burleska $139.95 AT vintagedancer.com
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1950s Coats and Jackets History Elsie Long Sleeve Faux Fur Long Swing Coat  AT vintagedancer.com
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1950s Coats and Jackets History Maggie Tang Vintage Elegant Swing Coat Rockabilly Tunic Classical Party Dress $59.99 AT vintagedancer.com
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1950s Coats and Jackets History Unique Vintage Black  Houndstooth Parkview Swing Coat $158.00 AT vintagedancer.com
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1950s Coats and Jackets History Walker and Hawkes Womens Derby Tweed Shooting Country Jacket  AT vintagedancer.com
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1950s Coats and Jackets History  Faux Fur Scarf Wrap Collar Shawl Shrug $15.99 AT vintagedancer.com
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$15.99
1950s Coats and Jackets History Jessica London Womens Plus Size Long Wool-Blend Coat with Faux Fur Collar $126.88 AT vintagedancer.com
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1950s Coats and Jackets History 50s Louisa May Coat in Sand £135.97 AT vintagedancer.com
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1950s Coats and Jackets History STUNNING purple black HELL BUNNY ELVIRA long VTG COAT XS S M L XL 10 12 14 16 BEAUTIFUL & ELEGANT 1950s 50s MARILYN evening glamour £112.49 AT vintagedancer.com
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£112.49
1950s Coats and Jackets History Alex Evenings Womens Velvet Blouse Top (Multiple Styles Petite and Regular Sizes) $119.00 AT vintagedancer.com
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1950s Coats and Jackets History Awdis Mens College Jacket $44.12 AT vintagedancer.com
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1950s Coats and Jackets History De la Crème - Womens Wool and Cashmere Blend Swing Winter Coat $165.00 AT vintagedancer.com
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1950s Coats and Jackets History Dashing Downtown Debutante Hooded Coat in- Long Sleeve A-Line Vintage Inspired by Hell Bunny from ModCloth $250.00 AT vintagedancer.com
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1950s Coats and Jackets History Zeagoo Womens Trench Coats Double-Breasted Long Coat with Belt  AT vintagedancer.com
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1950s Coats and Jackets History De La Creme  Wool Winter Double Breasted Fit and Flare Winter Coat  womens Coat in Black £77.69 AT vintagedancer.com
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£19.95
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1950s Coats and Jackets History Bombshell to Behold Coat inAU - Long Sleeve Button Down Mid-Length Vintage Inspired by Princess Highway from ModCloth $199.00 AT vintagedancer.com
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$199.00
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$50.99
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1950s Coats and Jackets History Womens Classic Lambswool Polo Coat Three-Quarter $249.00 AT vintagedancer.com
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1950s Coats and Jackets History Coat
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1950s Coats and Jackets History Banned Apparel Industrial Vintage 50s Ladies Coat £74.79 AT vintagedancer.com
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debbie
We are Debbie and Oscar, your guides to dressing up like decades past. We are here to help you find clothing online and learn about vintage fashions as worn by everyday people, just like you. Need help with your outfit? Ask us anytime.
« 1950s Plus Size Fashion & Clothing History
1940s Stockings: Hosiery, Nylons, and Socks History »

Comments

  1. Ann muller says

    October 2, 2018 at 3:28 am

    I had a light grey half swagger swing coat l wore over a grey suit l would have one now please someone bring them back they would sell like hot cakes l

  2. Jibril says

    March 14, 2017 at 10:54 pm

    very educative information, keep it up for us.

  3. Miriam says

    October 21, 2014 at 5:15 pm

    Thanks so much for all the great information! I’m in my glory reading through it all. Well done!

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How to Buy:

Click on the picture or title of the product and you will be redirected to the online merchant selling that item. Questions about sizing and shipping are answered on the merchants website.

VintageDancer.com links to clothing for sale online to make finding vintage inspired clothing easier.

Our Story

Dressing in vintage style clothing for a themed event or personal fashion is our passion. We turned a hobby into this website to make it easy to find vintage inspired clothing for women and men online spanning 1900-1960s. Our fashion history blog helps you create the look from decades past using vintage, vintage inspired and thrifty clothing, Need help? Ask us anytime.

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