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Vintage Dancer | 1920s Fashion | 1920s Plus Size Fashion in the Jazz Age

1920s Plus Size Fashion in the Jazz Age

1920s Fashion History

7 May 2013

The iconic image of a woman in the 1920s is the flapper. A photo of a tall thin woman in a drop-waist shift dress and a cloche hat instantly identifies the era. However, just as fashion of the 1970s covered far more territory than bell bottom jeans and tie-dye T-shirts, fashion in the Jazz Age was about more than being skinny, a flapper, and listening to jazz.

1920s plus size women fashion clthing dresses

Early 1920s plus women’s dresses

If a woman was looking for plus size clothing in the 1920s and she wanted to wear the latest fashions from Paris, she was going to be out of luck, although she was not alone. American women considered “average” in size felt a bit neglected by the Parisian fashion designers, too. Still, that did not mean that women needing plus size clothing were shut out of the fashion world. Vogue said, “surely the makers of the mode do not expect all women whose waist-lines measure more than 34 inches to retire to one of those communities where the genial garment known as the Mother Hubbard is the last word in dress.”

1927 plus size casual dresses

1927 plus size casual dresses

Article Outline

  • 1920s  Plus Size Clothing Industry
  • Plus Size 1920s Fashions Today
  • Shopping Guide:
  • New 1920s plus size dresses

1920s  Plus Size Clothing Industry

plus size fashion catalog

1925 Lane Bryant Catalog

When Lane Bryant opened its doors in the early 1900, the term for its plus size clientele was “stout” which was adopted by most other brands and department stores as well.  Lane Bryant’s business model was a success, because by 1916 their sales were over $1 million a year. The fact that the founder Lena Himmelstein Bryant and her husband, Albert Malsin, bothered to take the time to actually research body sizes no doubt helped the company’s success. Lane Bryant did not simply want to make clothes in larger sizes. It wanted to make clothes that helped women look and feel their best.

1920 Lane Bryant ad

1920 Lane Bryant ad

Department stores and mail order catalog companies caught on to the plus size garment industry quickly. Offerings included dresses, coats, lingerie, corsets, hats, and shoes. Each style was designed to flatter the full figured woman by elongating the body with vertical details, subtle colors, and flat fabrics. In their stores and catalogs, they also made maternity clothing utilizing similar design principles.

Charles Williams 1926 catalog describes this dress:

plus size 1920s dress

1926 Plus Size Silk Satin Dress

Advertiser

“The circular flare has proven itself very becoming to the stout woman. Slender lines are achieved on this ALL Silk Satin-Faced Canton Frock. The narrow panel set in with fagotting down the front is of contrasting color. The collar and long tie string at the front are very smart and effective. There is a half belt of self-materiel, which ties at the back. The tiny glass buttons on the panel down the front add a smart finish. Stout sizes 38 1/2 to 54 1/2 inch bust. Navy, Brown, Black. $10.98”

1920s plus size fashion: 1927 afternoon dresses in plus sizes

1927 afternoon dresses in stout sizes

In some ways, the style of the era actually created more plus size options. A woman could wear a straight evening gown that dropped straight to the floor, perhaps with an uneven hem, and be fashionable while still camouflaging her build. Wide, bell-shaped sleeves with fluting, buttons, or unusually shaped cuffs provided interest. Deep V-backs elongated the body, as did longer flared skirts. Tall women wore blouses with attached capes that started just under the shoulder blades, paired with a long skirt. Tulle capes were flattering and great for adding a touch of youthfulness.

1922 women's plus size walking suits
1922 women’s stout suits
1926 house dresses plus sizes home dress
1926 house dresses
1929 dresses for all sizes
1929 dresses for all sizes

Here are some photos of women from average to stout sizes:

Advertiser

Late teens/20s natural waist dress
Late teens/ early 20s natural waist dress
Early 20s polka dot house dress
Early 20s polka dot house dress
The daughter wears 1920s casual dress while mother wears modest clothing of late 1910s
The Daughter Wears a 1920s Casual Dress while Mother Wears Modest Clothing of Late 1910s

1920s plus size woman
Woman in a drop waist dress with pleated skirt sides.
A summer day dress
A summer day dress with tiered skirt
Drop waist skirt with faux tiers 1920s plus size woman fashion
Drop waist skirt with faux tiers

Middy top navy blue dress 1920s black woman
Middy Top Navy Blue Dress
Mid 1920s
1924 plus size woman day dress and beads
1924 day dress and beads

1920s plus size women photo
Two lovely ladies in full figure fashions
1920s plus size women
Mother and daughter in full 20’s finery flattering to thier shape
Late 20s dresses, average size, still considered stout
Late 20s dresses, average size, still considered stout

1920s plus size dress
Crochet dress overlayed on a slip
French woman in early 20s frocks
French woman in early 20s frocks
Harlan Stone, 1920s sleeveless evening gown plus size mature woman
Harlan Stone, 1920s sleeveless evening gown

Bessie Smith
1920s Tiered lace party dress plus size fashion
Tiered lace party dress
1925 beaded evening gowns for full figured women
1925 beaded evening gowns

Women in search of plus sizes also benefited from the popularity of sportswear. A big appeal to this clothing was that it came in colors other than black or navy blue. Manufacturers rarely created plus size clothing in bright colors (only in the past few years has that trend began to change). Other casual clothing that was popular was loose, unbuttoned cardigan sweaters worn with a long skirt. Stockings and shoes matched to avoid drawing attention to the ankle.

Stockings and lingerie plus sizes 1920s

Stockings and lingerie

1920s hats for plus size women

1928 Hat for Fuller Faces

Of course, the marketing emphasis on plus size clothing was concealment and to that end, fabrics were “quiet.” No swishing satin or ruffling taffeta. No high shine fabrics that glistened under bright light. That did leave a wide range of other fabrics, though, including crepe de chine, crepe Romain, jersey, and twills. Hats were not too large and not too small, with perhaps a drooping brim.

1920s plus size flapper

Enid Stamp Taylor, 1924, Actress and Plus Size Flapper

It seems that regardless of the decade and a woman’s frame, finding clothing that is both fashionable and flattering can sometimes be a challenge. However, the clothing industry made important strides in the 1920s in acknowledging that women come in all sizes and shapes. The fact is that most women were not flappers, but that did not mean that they were relegated to the sidelines when it came to the fashion and fun of the roaring ’20s.

1920s plus size fashion

Beautiful! Fringe bottom dress with lace center accent.

The North Carolina Mutual Quintet, led by Bessie Whitted, late 1920s - a few plus size fashions here. They look amazing!

The North Carolina Mutual Quintet, led by Bessie Whitted, late 1920s 

 

Plus Size 1920s Fashions Today

I hear over and over again “twenties clothing does not look good on my curvy figure.” This is really a shame because when dressing in the right ’20s clothes, “stout” women look amazing. For example, take Cherie S. posing in a beautiful 1920s reproduction dress from Unique Vintage:

1920s clothing plus szie

Cherie S. shows us how to dress well in 1920s clothing

Cherie chose a straight fitting beaded dress worn with a long scarf coat that came to mid shin. Both the long beads on the dress and fringe on the coat create vertical lines that are very ’20s and very slimming. Well done, Cherie! You look amazing (and congrats on your wedding).

Here is another example. A few summers ago I helped my sister in law, Tricia, find a thrift store costume for the Great Gatsby Festival in Lake Tahoe. We started with a black ’60s velvet shift dress, added a matching velvet evening jacket, cute beaded purse, scarf for a headband, Mary Jane shoes, and simple long gold necklace. We were both really happy with the final outfit. Based on pictures of ’20s plus size catalog dresses, this is pretty darn accurate and quite flattering.

1920's plus size gatsby dress

Thrifted Gatsby Costume

There are many tips women were given the 1920s to choose the right clothing based on their figure as well as hair color, face shape, height, and age.  I put all these tips in the free 1920s Fashion or Your Body Type eBook. I just finished revising it with even more information and about 40 new pictures of ’20s clothing. It should help you pick an outfit that is the most flattering.

Click to Download a PDF copy of the 1920s Fashion for Your Body Type.

Here are some types of dresses that would be great choices:

Caption A natural waist dress is very early 20s and flattering for curvy figures Alt Text
A natural waist dress is very early 20s and flattering for curvy figures
1920s dresses for plus size mature women- A loose jacket layered over a long dress adds vertical lines and covers arms comfortably
A loose jacket layered over a long dress adds vertical lines and covers arms comfortably
1920s plus size dresses ideas - A long column dress with a straight fit is ideal for square body shapes
A long column dress with a straight fit is ideal for square body shapes

Don't be afraid of a drop waist dress- be sure the fit is loose order one size up) for it to hang right.
Don’t be afraid of a drop waist dress- be sure the fit is loose order one size up) for it to hang right.
1920s plus size fashion - A dresses with layers is flattering on most body shapes
A dresses with layers is flattering on most body shapes

Shopping Guide:

1920s plus size reproduction dresses and inspired dresses are plentiful this year. After looking at the dresses here, add shoes (wide shoes too), stockings, hats, headbands, and shawls.

1920s One Hour Dress and Pretty Frocks eBooks are both excellent ’20s patterns adapted to your own measurements.

Sewing patterns- many in plus sizes. See the BIG list of ’20s patterns.

The Plus Size 1920s Facebook group is a good one to join to get costume help, show off your looks and occasionally purchase vintage 1920s clothing.

New 1920s plus size dresses

1920s Plus Size Fashion in the Jazz Age Grey Great Gatsby dress with elbow-length sleeves 1920s dress flapper costume Charleston dress Roaring 20s fashion Downton Abbey dress $112.00 AT vintagedancer.com
Etsy
$112.00
Grey Great Gatsby dress with elbow-length sleeves 1920s dress flapper costume Charleston dress Roaring 20s fashion Downton Abbey dress
1920s Plus Size Fashion in the Jazz Age Alexa 1920s Flapper Style Dress in Mauve by Nataya $275.00 AT vintagedancer.com
WardrobeShop
$275.00
Alexa 1920s Flapper Style Dress in Mauve by Nataya
1920s Plus Size Fashion in the Jazz Age Unique Vintage Black  Green Beaded Antoinette Peacock Flapper Dress $98.00 AT vintagedancer.com
UniqueVintage
$98.00
Unique Vintage Black Green Beaded Antoinette Peacock Flapper Dress
1920s Plus Size Fashion in the Jazz Age Downton Abbey Tea Party Gown in Royal Blue by Nataya $275.00 AT vintagedancer.com
WardrobeShop
$275.00
Downton Abbey Tea Party Gown in Royal Blue by Nataya
1920s Plus Size Fashion in the Jazz Age Mary Art Deco Fringe Dress in Black Gold $215.00 AT vintagedancer.com
WardrobeShop
$215.00
Mary Art Deco Fringe Dress in Black Gold
1920s Plus Size Fashion in the Jazz Age 1920s Style Dress 40825 in Ivory by Nataya $305.00 AT vintagedancer.com
WardrobeShop
$305.00
1920s Style Dress 40825 in Ivory by Nataya
1920s Plus Size Fashion in the Jazz Age BABEYOND Plus Size 1920s Art Deco Fringed Sequin Dress Flapper Gatsby Costume Dress for Women  AT vintagedancer.com
Amazon
BABEYOND Plus Size 1920s Art Deco Fringed Sequin Dress Flapper Gatsby Costume Dress for Women
1920s Plus Size Fashion in the Jazz Age Downton Abbey Tea Party Gown in Ivory by Nataya $275.00 AT vintagedancer.com
WardrobeShop
$275.00
Downton Abbey Tea Party Gown in Ivory by Nataya
1920s Plus Size Fashion in the Jazz Age 1920s Flapper Style Dress 40834 in Rose by Nataya $225.00 AT vintagedancer.com
WardrobeShop
$225.00
1920s Flapper Style Dress 40834 in Rose by Nataya
1920s Plus Size Fashion in the Jazz Age Grey chiffon cardigan with cascade collar grey Great Gatsby jacket 1920s high tea cardigan grey flapper jacket Downton Abbey jacket $68.00 AT vintagedancer.com
Etsy
$68.00
Grey chiffon cardigan with cascade collar grey Great Gatsby jacket 1920s high tea cardigan grey flapper jacket Downton Abbey jacket
1920s Plus Size Fashion in the Jazz Age Great Gatsby linen dress in grey and olive with square neck & 3/4 sleeves 1920s high tea dress Downton Abbey dress 1920s flapper dress LaVieDelight $140.00 AT vintagedancer.com
Etsy
$140.00
Great Gatsby linen dress in grey and olive with square neck & 3/4 sleeves 1920s high tea dress Downton Abbey dress 1920s flapper dress LaVieDelight
1920s Plus Size Fashion in the Jazz Age Scarlett 1920s Style Wedding Dress in Peach Ivory by Nataya $280.00 AT vintagedancer.com
WardrobeShop
$280.00
Scarlett 1920s Style Wedding Dress in Peach Ivory by Nataya
1920s Plus Size Fashion in the Jazz Age Vintage Inspired Sky Blue Dress by Nataya $229.00 AT vintagedancer.com
WardrobeShop
$229.00
Vintage Inspired Sky Blue Dress by Nataya
1920s Plus Size Fashion in the Jazz Age Fun grey and black flapper dress with side bows 1920s flapper dress Great Gatsby dress art deco dress Miss Fisher dress robe Charleston $140.00 AT vintagedancer.com
Etsy
$140.00
Fun grey and black flapper dress with side bows 1920s flapper dress Great Gatsby dress art deco dress Miss Fisher dress robe Charleston
1920s Plus Size Fashion in the Jazz Age Great Gatsby Party Dress in Ivory by Nataya $249.00 AT vintagedancer.com
WardrobeShop
$249.00
Great Gatsby Party Dress in Ivory by Nataya
1920s Plus Size Fashion in the Jazz Age 1920s Inspired Evening Maxi Dress in Plum $275.00 AT vintagedancer.com
WardrobeShop
$275.00
1920s Inspired Evening Maxi Dress in Plum
1920s Plus Size Fashion in the Jazz Age New Vintage Titanic Tea Party Dress in Ivory by Nataya $249.00 AT vintagedancer.com
WardrobeShop
$249.00
New Vintage Titanic Tea Party Dress in Ivory by Nataya
1920s Plus Size Fashion in the Jazz Age Titanic Tea Party Dress in Ivory by Nataya $249.00 AT vintagedancer.com
WardrobeShop
$249.00
Titanic Tea Party Dress in Ivory by Nataya
1920s Plus Size Fashion in the Jazz Age Plus Size Glam Gown Plum Prom Maxi Dress with Sleeves 20s Flapper Great Gatsby Formal Speakeasy Wedding Reception Bridesmaids prom $220.89 AT vintagedancer.com
Etsy
$220.89
Plus Size Glam Gown Plum Prom Maxi Dress with Sleeves 20s Flapper Great Gatsby Formal Speakeasy Wedding Reception Bridesmaids prom
1920s Plus Size Fashion in the Jazz Age VIJIV Womens Vintage 1920s V Neck Long Bias Cut Sleeveless with Flutter Sleeves Bowknot Flapper Dress  AT vintagedancer.com
Amazon
VIJIV Womens Vintage 1920s V Neck Long Bias Cut Sleeveless with Flutter Sleeves Bowknot Flapper Dress
1920s Plus Size Fashion in the Jazz Age Great Gatsby Party Dress in Rose Blossom by Nataya $249.00 AT vintagedancer.com
WardrobeShop
$249.00
Great Gatsby Party Dress in Rose Blossom by Nataya
1920s Plus Size Fashion in the Jazz Age Unique Vintage 1920S Deco Green  Black Sequin Veronique Fringe Flapper Dress $98.00 AT vintagedancer.com
UniqueVintage
$98.00
Unique Vintage 1920S Deco Green Black Sequin Veronique Fringe Flapper Dress
1920s Plus Size Fashion in the Jazz Age Alexa 1920s Flapper Style Dress in Lemon by Nataya $275.00 AT vintagedancer.com
WardrobeShop
$275.00
Alexa 1920s Flapper Style Dress in Lemon by Nataya
1920s Plus Size Fashion in the Jazz Age Unique Vintage Plus Size 1920S Black Sequin Fringe Del Mar Flapper Dress $110.00 AT vintagedancer.com
UniqueVintage
$110.00
Unique Vintage Plus Size 1920S Black Sequin Fringe Del Mar Flapper Dress
1920s Plus Size Fashion in the Jazz Age Studio 8 Womens Siena Fringe Maxi Dress £89.00 AT vintagedancer.com
PhaseEight
£89.00
Studio 8 Womens Siena Fringe Maxi Dress
1920s Plus Size Fashion in the Jazz Age Black Sequin Gatsby Maxi Long Evening Prom Dress  AT vintagedancer.com
Amazon
Black Sequin Gatsby Maxi Long Evening Prom Dress
1920s Plus Size Fashion in the Jazz Age Alexa 1920s Flapper Style Dress in Black-Silver by Nataya $275.00 AT vintagedancer.com
WardrobeShop
$275.00
Alexa 1920s Flapper Style Dress in Black-Silver by Nataya
1920s Plus Size Fashion in the Jazz Age Vintage Titanic Style Dress in Aqua by Nataya $319.00 AT vintagedancer.com
WardrobeShop
$319.00
Vintage Titanic Style Dress in Aqua by Nataya
1920s Plus Size Fashion in the Jazz Age R  M Richards Plus Size Embellished Dress  Jacket $99.00 AT vintagedancer.com
Macyscom
$99.00
R M Richards Plus Size Embellished Dress Jacket
1920s Plus Size Fashion in the Jazz Age Unique Vintage Plus Size Black Beaded  Sequin Margaux Sleeved Fringe Flapper Dress $110.00 AT vintagedancer.com
UniqueVintage
$110.00
Unique Vintage Plus Size Black Beaded Sequin Margaux Sleeved Fringe Flapper Dress

 

debbie
We are Debbie and Oscar, your guides to dressing up like decades past. We are here to help you find clothing online and learn about vintage fashions as worn by everyday people, just like you. Need help with your outfit? Ask us anytime.
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