To properly answer the question “What did women and men wear in the 1920s?” would depend on what they were doing, with whom, and at what time of day. Here you will learn about the types of clothing women and men wore for specific occasions. Follow the links within for even more 1920s fashion history.
Something that stands out to me about vintage fashion prior to the ’60s is how often wealthy men and women changed clothing in one day. There was an outfit for every time of day, every type of outing, and every type of party. Add to that specific types of clothing for your age, class, and occupation, and you have one huge wardrobe!
Each type of clothing in a 1920s closet had a certain set of guidelines as to when they were to be worn. What were the “rules” for morning dress, afternoon dress, and evenings? What about going to school or working?
First, let’s explore women’s clothing. For men’s 1920s fashion, read this article.
1920s Fashion Trends for Women
- Below-knee length drop-waist dresses with a loose, straight fit.
- Beaded evening dresses inspired by “flappers.”
- Mary Jane or T-strap heel shoes.
- Casual sport golf knickers, argyle socks, blouse and tie.
- Cocoon fur coats and fringe wraps.
- Cloche hats and short bobbed hairstyles.
- Bead or feather headbands for evenings.
- Long pearl necklaces, bold Art Deco colors, faux gemstones.
- Small beaded purses held pretty makeup compacts and cigarette cases.
Josephine Baker- cloche hat, fur collar coat
1920s House Dresses
While at home in the company of just family, clothing was at its most comfortable state.
1923 cotton house dresses in plaids and checks
The housewife wore a simple cotton dress, thick black cotton stockings, and low heel Oxfords. Dresses were colorful plaids, checks, stripes, or solid colors with pretty embroidery and trim such as lace or rick rack. Housedresses often had white collars.
1927 house dresses and day dresses
A woman’s apron was usually handmade. The housedresses and aprons were basic, yet durable enough for the rigors of 1920s household chores (vacuums, washers, and irons were just entering the marketplace). For the very poor, a cotton housedress was the only outfit for the day.
Shop 20s house dresses/day dresses.
1928 decorated apron
My handmade 1920s house dress in a restored 1920s kitchen. Learn how I made it here.
1920s Women’s Work Clothing
Women in manual labor such as factory work, sewing, nursing, maids or nannies, and foodservice were required to wear specialty uniform coat/smock or apron over a cotton house frock. Girls who worked as shop assistants had to dress a little nicer, with a daytime dress or a uniform of shirtwaist dress with a white collar.
1927 nurse uniform
Even while working at a silk mill, young women took the time to stay on the fashion trend. Here a worker in 1924 has the latest bobbed haircut and what appears to be canton silk (silk and cotton) blend dress with an embroidered waistband.
1924 silk mill working woman
For women who worked professional jobs– such as teachers, secretaries, journalists, and telephone operators– a modest day dress or skirt and blouse set was worn. A three-piece suit could also be worn.
A telephone girl wears a nice dress for her job (she probably dressed up for this photo- her neighbor is wearing a simple cotton dress, possibly a uniform)
1920s Traveling Clothes
Traveling in the 1920s was a dirty affair. Cars were dusty, trains were hot, and buses were so packed with commuters that people were bound to be a wrinkled mess by the time they arrived at their destination. For those reasons, 1920s traveling clothes, for both men and women, were simple suits, a sturdy overcoat, a comfortable hat, leather gloves, a leather purse or luggage, and low profile shoes.
Late 20s traveling suit
Colors were neutral greys, browns, and blues that showed the least amount of dirt possible. Materials that wrinkled, like linen and cotton, were avoided and instead knit, wool, or sturdy cotton blends were preferred.
1923 ladies suits
If travel required an overnight stay, a woman would have packed a conservative tailored pajama or nightgown. She was sure to pack all of her own toiletries so she would not inconvenience the host!
Women’s office attire: Suit jacket, blouse, skirt and hat
1920s Street Wear, Daytime Clothes
When a woman was done with her housewife chores, it was time to run some errands while her husband went to work. Clothing was still simple but of a higher quality than cotton prints. A walking suit (skirt, blouse and sweater) paired with a sturdy pair of mid-heel Oxfords, Mary Janes, or T-Strap shoes is the most utilitarian of the daytime dress.
1927 daytime dresses
A tailored dress made of a silk blend crepe or wool was also appropriate. These dresses featured a natural waist sash in the early 20s that gradually moved down into a drop waist with a thin belt by 1926. Dresses fit loose and usually slipped on overhead.
A small collar or wide open flat collar with a bow tie at the neck was essential to the ’20s wardrobe. Details were added to the dress that elongated the body such as vertical pintucks, a long necktie, a row of buttons, and pleated, draped or tiered skirts.
1927 dressy afternoon styles
Colors for city folk were a bit on the drab side: black, navy, grey, tan, and olive green. Country folk and seaside dwellers liked color: white in summer, yellow, red, blue, and light grey year-round. The difference between city and country clothing in Europe was far more pronounced than in America. Americans loved to disobey fashion “rules” and wore whatever color they personally liked. See 1920s fabrics and colors in fashion.
Learn more about daytime 20s dresses here or shop daytime appropriate dresses online.
Outing attire, by LaVieDelight. Shop more daytime dresses here.
Accessories with a suit or dress would coordinate, but not match, a woman’s outfit, and were kept simple. Jewelry was left at home, but a cloche hat and gloves were essential. Stockings were matte and only semi-sheer at the most, in black or tan.
1920s style hats for you. Shop hats.
The hat is one accessory that women never left home without. There were hats for summer (woven straw, cotton) and winter (felt or hand sewn cloche hats). Hat trends included the tricorn when the Three Musketeers movie was popular, turban for fancy afternoons and evenings, the beret for the young lady, and a wide brim sun hat for garden parties.
1928 cloche hats
The most iconic hat was the cloche, meaning “bell” because it was shaped with a round crown and a small brim. Women often had to tilt their head back to see clearly while wearing a cloche. Hats had less decoration than they did in previous years, but were still quite pretty with a bow, flower or Art Deco shape on one side.
Read more about women’s 1920s hats. Shop 1920s style hats.
1925 young flappers dressed up in afternoon dresses with hats, scarves, and jewelry.
1920s Church Clothing / Special Events
Surprisingly, wearing Sunday’s best was not part of the ’20s culture unless a woman was poor and only had one nice outfit– then, certainly, she MUST wear that to church. Otherwise, whatever she wore for streetwear / afternoon attire she also wore to church, as long as it was modest with long sleeves and a below the knee hemline.
1927 long sleeve summer dresses for Church
If a sleeveless dress was worn, a light shawl, wrap or jacket acted as a light coverup. Simple, non-distracting clothing was appreciated in church. Women were required to wear a hat, gloves, and a matching purse. These three accessories polished her look and gave her permission to add personality to an otherwise conservative dress.
Shop 20s dresses – day, party and evening styles all together. Over 500 choices!
Afternoon dresses worn with pearl necklaces
Daytime or afternoon styles dresses may be more difficult to buy than a beaded flapper dress. Read these articles to help you find or make the perfect dress:
- 1920s Style Dresses in 2020 – How to spot a 1920s style day dress from popular new dress style in fashion now.
- 1920s DIY dress ideas – How to put together 1920s inspired outfits from new or used clothing.
- Sew a 1920s dress in any size from the One Hour Dress pattern (it will take at least 2 hours to make).
- How to Accessorize a 1920s dress – Ideas to make a basic dress more 1920s. Belts, sashes, trim, wraps, etc.
- Plus size fashion in the 1920s – Be inspired by curvy ladies wearing real 1920s fashions.
- 1920s Outfit Inspiration- Women 20s Costume Ideas
1920s Afternoon Tea Dresses, Party Dresses
1921 tea party dresses
A woman’s most common social activity was having tea with friends. Tea parties could be semi-formal or formal. A tea dress was an afternoon dress made of lighter, brighter materials and more trim. The afternoon dress was a thing of sophisticated beauty. White dresses worn in summer were very attractive, while pastels or rich jewel tones offered variety in the other seasons.
1920s tea party outfit from Wardrobe Shop
Shoes and accessories were more dramatic, too. Shoes would be slip on pumps or one strap Mary Jane heels in medium or high height. Stockings would be sheerer and in white or colors to match the dress. Gloves would also match or be white (and were taken off to eat, smoke or use the restroom). A hat would be whatever is most becoming to the dress, such as a feather trim sun hat or decorative cloche. Carrying a parasol was a popular beach or summer party accessory.
Learn more about dressing in afternoon party dresses.
1925, dresses for church or afternoon garden party
If a woman is to host the tea, then etiquette calls for her to NOT wear a hat and to keep her dress long and elegant. I don’t quite understand the no hat rule, other than it just sets her apart from the sea of hatted guests. Instead, I imagine she would have had her hair styled specially for the occasion.
1923 tea gowns or formal day dresses in winter with sleeves
1920s Shoes
Women’s shoes became more delicate and pretty over the roaring ’20s decade, simply because they were more visible under short dresses. For daytime use, the low heel lace-up Oxford shoe in brown, white or black was worn every day. For something a little nicer when going out or dressing up, it was the classic Mary Jane heel with a single strap across the front.
1925 shoes: mary jane heels, oxford with low heels, lace up boots
The late 1920s T-strap heel is the most famous evening shoe because the two straps held onto the foot while dancing the Charleston. They often came in black and gold or silver with hand-painted heel designs that stood out on the dance floor. Straps and buckles were also decorated on fancier models.
There were basic slip-on pumps, low heel pumps with toe buckles inspired by colonial-era shoes, and multi-strap heels in the early ’20s as well.
1929 shoes with heels
While flats were uncommon, you can find Mary Jane and T-strap shoes in the low heel or flat sole, as well as wide and narrow shoes and even specialty dance shoes.
Shop 20s style shoes here
For sportier occasions, the two-tone Oxford (saddle shoes? yes) or classic Keds white sport sneakers were best for playing on grass or dirt. Hiking boots were very tall lace-up boots. Granny boots with a French heel were still worn by many mature women instead of shoes.
Learn about the history of 1920s shoes or shop for 1920s style shoes (USA) and UK here.
1920s Casual Outfits / Knitwear
Those college kids get to have all the fun fashions. Being away from parents (who did their laundry) and in a fashion-forward subculture, college kids wore sportier clothing such as knit dresses, knee length knit suits, knit sweaters, knit vests, knit socks, knits gloves… knit knit knit!
1928 knit sweaters and skirts
They wore cotton, linen, silk, and rayon dresses, too, but knitwear was sportswear and sportswear was what every trendy college kid was wearing.
As for shoes, you guessed it, sporty two-tone Oxfords, T-straps, and pumps were in vogue, and flashy satin sandals were out.
In winter, wearing a raccoon coat was high fashion! Fur collar cocoon-shaped coats were also trendy and a bit more affordable.
Fur collar coats
A sorority girl living in a community house needed a lounging robe or house jacket and slippers to remain modest. Her busy school schedule did not excuse her from changing clothing several times a day.
“Each girl’s wardrobe should contain an extra dress or two which can be worn to meals. At breakfast and lunch, the girls will of necessity wear the dresses they wear to class. At dinner time they should change into something different. They will find themselves fresher in appearance and will be more sociable if they take time to change clothes before the evening meal.” (Textiles and Clothing / by Elizabeth Sage.)
1929 kimono robes
1920s Women’s Sportswear
Specific sports called for different types of clothing; however, there were two primary sets. The first set was worn by golfers, tennis players and other ladylike sports. It consisted of a long or tea-length skirt, long sleeve blouse and a loose-knit vest or sweater. A thin belt tied the waist in.
1923 women in gold clothes: pullover sweater, long coat and cardigan sweater
A low heel Oxford or flat saddle shoes were best on grassy surfaces. It is a look similar to the college style above.
1920s sporty attire with knickers, sweater, shirt and tie. Helen Richey, the first commercial female airline pilot in the USA, is pictured.
The second look was for more vigorous outdoor activities, such as hiking, riding, camping, and fishing. Instead of a skirt, women wore wool knickers (also called plus fours, togs, breeks or jodphurs). They were wide and baggy around the hips with a button cuff below the knee.
Women also wore thick stockings or knee-high argyle socks with a pair of flat Oxfords. A button-down shirt with collar and a skinny black tie gave a nod to menswear. Knit vests, pullover sweaters, and long cardigans added warmth. Many men did not appreciate this masculine look, but young adventurous women loved it.
1920s Sportswear Outfit
Being able to wear pants (knickers) and “men’s” clothing gave freedom to a new generation of women who embraced non-traditional roles. See more non-flapper outfit ideas here.
1920s casual menswear for women sporty costume ideas- see these and more casual 1920s outfits.
The all-white tennis outfit was another popular summertime outfit while playing or watching tennis and other sports.
1920s Sporty Outfit, casual daywear. See this and more ideas.
1920s Beach Attire / Vacations
Weekends and vacations were a new trend in the 1920s. Beachside destinations were the most popular, and one where casual comfort was of the utmost importance. White or navy dresses with a nautical or sailor theme (middy top and pleated skirt) were what all classes would wear.
A summer white dress with blue sailor necktie
Upper classes in the late 1920s began wearing a pants ensemble called beach pajamas. They were inspired by Asian prints with wide legs and a kimono-style top or jacket, they were one of the few times women could wear pants. Read about the this and other types of women’s 1920s pants here.
Late ’20s Beach Pajama
Some women wore beach pajamas while lounging at home or playing a game of mahjongg. Miss Fisher wears quite a few flowing wide-leg pant and kimono coat ensembles while solving murder mysteries.
Miss Fisher wearing a white pant ensemble with kimono coat
Shop 1920s pants and beach pajamas.
1920s Dinner & Dancing Outfits
Like tea parties, dinner with friends or going out to a restaurant would have been semi-formal or formal. If the occasion was semi-formal, then an afternoon dress/tea dress attire was all she would have needed.
1924 Long evening dresses
Evening dresses were made of fine materials like silk, chiffon, taffeta and light velvet. They were usually sleeveless for young women or had long sleeves for older women. Dresses featured the iconic ’20s drop waist with layers or tiers of fabric creating some fullness from the waist down.
Long, formal, evening gowns inspired by the 1920s
Beaded dresses were the most glamorous and the most expensive. Some had fringe or metal sequins, but this was quite rare. The short fringed flapper dress is a ’20s myth. Real flappers wore knee-length or longer gowns that swished and swayed while dancing to jazz music.
c. 1925: Louise Brooks standing by the stairway in a formal beaded “flapper” dress.
1920s flapper dresses in red, gold, white, silver and black!
Shop 1920s party dresses- flapper dresses or long, formal evening gowns.
For more dresses in the UK, look at these and for AU/ NZ try these 20s dresses.
How to accessorize a 1920s evening dress
Hats were not appropriate for eveningwear unless it was a turban. Headbands, crowns, and hair combs were more appropriate in the first half of the decade, none in the second half.
The evening purse, too, would have been of a formal nature and made of sequins, gold mesh, glittering beads, or other colorful materials.
1923 long evening dress and opera coat
It would have also been wise to wear a matching dress jacket, fringe evening shawl, or fur wrap to a formal affair. Jewelry was minimal, perhaps a long bead or pearl necklace, drop earrings, and a bracelet were optional. Accessories such as long gloves, a hand fan, fringe shawl or boa, and cigarette holder were also glamorous additions.
1920s Mature Women’s Fashion
1920s Young woman on the left wearing an early 1920s dress while her mother on the right is in the clothing of the late 1910s.
Not everyone was a bright young thing in the 1920s, nor did they want to wear the latest fashion of drop-waist dresses. Many mature women continued to wear the fashions of 10 years prior to the 1920s. This meant long, modest, waistless tunic dresses, in dark rich fabrics.
1927 Conservative dresses for mature women
Tall lace up boots or strappy heels were more comfortable for women who grew up wearing them. Hats were larger as well, not the helmet cloches of the roaring twenties.
For the mature women who chose to dress more modern, there were styles that were modest and simply decorated. Lane Bryant was one of the first mail-order catalogs to design garments for the mature, plus size and maternity market.
1927 drop waist in plus dresses dresses
Most of the Lane Bryant fashions were modeled after the same designs worn in the mainstream, however, designs were usually of solid colors or small all-over prints with vertical lines created by long pleats, long lapels, and narrow belts.
1926 plus size fashions
Long sleeves and matching jackets were usually paired with straight-line dresses. These style details elongated the body and looked flattering on women of all shapes and ages. That doesn’t mean you, as a modern woman, will be happy in the 1920s style dress, but half the battle is choosing the right design and making small alterations to enhance the ’20s fit. Learn more with this free eBook.
Shop plus size dresses and mature women’s dresses with sleeves.
More 20s Outfit Ideas
- Read 10 easy 1920s costume ideas that are simple to put together from things you already own. Day and evening dresses, casual clothing, gangster girls, garden party, DIY, thrifted and more.
- Ten 1920s Outfit ideas – Looks inspired by the 1920s costumes in the Downton Abbey TV series. Day, sporty, summer and winter looks.
- How to dress like a 1920s flapper – Love the iconic flapper girl costume? Read this article for tips on staying authentic yet fun!
- Non-flapper outfit ideas – Simple dresses, separates, pants, sportswear and non-beaded eveningwear outfits.
- 1920s Outfit Inspiration- Women 20s Costume Ideas
- One Hour Dress Tips and Reviews – Sew a basic dress in only 2 hours. See many examples of how to adapt this vintage 1924 pattern into day and evening looks. This article on accessorizing a plain dress will help too.
- 20s costumes – cheaper Halloween costumes are affordable and fun! Look here for gangster girl costumes
- More articles on 1920s fashion history can be found here.
1920s costumes- Shop here.
What are you going to wear?
So there you have it. Any other type of activity you might encounter was usually determined by the time of day and the indication of formality. So, next time you head to a daytime tea party you will know to wear an afternoon dress or, for men, a summer white suit. For Gatsby’s lavish affair, bare your arms and party like it is the day before prohibition starts!
Need help? Contact us anytime.
Debbie Sessions has been teaching fashion history and helping people dress for vintage themed events since 2009. She has turned a hobby into VintageDancer.com with hundreds of well researched articles and hand picked links to vintage inspired clothing online. She aims to make dressing accurately (or not) an affordable option for all. Oh, and she dances too.
