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Vintage Dancer | 1920s Fashion | Roaring Twenties 20s Fashion Guide

Roaring Twenties 20s Fashion Guide

1920s Fashion History

21 Oct 2013

A roaring twenties themed event is one of my favorite decades to dress up for. It is both incredibly glamorous and not too difficult to find something to wear. This wasn’t always the case. When I began researching and writing about 1920s fashion, there was little to choose from. Now thanks to several movies and TV series set in the 1920s, twenties fashion, clothing and costumes are everywhere!

For gentlemen, the pinstripe gangster is a classic, but so is the more casual vintage ’20s working man or sophisticated Jay Gatsby or urban Peaky Blinders gang. Although the flapper dress or gangster costume are still the most popular roaring ’20s outfits to re-create, there are many 1920s costumes that are not flapper outfits you can make or buy. All of these 1920s fashion are explored below with links to help you create your unique 1920s costume.

1920s Fashion History

1920s house dress VS day dress fashion

1920s house dress VS day dress fashion

In a nutshell, 1920s fashion for women was all about getting loose, which applied to morals, too. Women wore dresses all day, every day, rain or shine. Most dresses had a drop waist, with a belt or sash around the hip and a skirt that hung down anywhere from the ankle on up to (but never above) the knee.

Daywear had sleeves (long to mid-bicep) and a skirt that was straight, pleated, hank hem, or tired. Daywear accessories included cloche hats, seamed stockings, a small purse, gloves and maybe jewelry. Daytime shoes were 1-2.5 inch T-straps, single or double strap Mary Janes, and low heel Oxfords.

1925, dresses idea for church or afternoon garden party

1925, dresses ideal for church or afternoon garden party

For most men, suits were the day to day attire. Striped, plaid or windowpane suits came in dark grey, blue and brown in winter and ivory, white, tan and pastels in summer. All suits had matching lapel collar vests with a pocket watch and chain dangling from inside. The dress shirt was unique with a white round or pointed collar on a colored body of stripes or light pastel solids for most of the 1920s.

Peaky Blinders shirt collar- 1922 men's round club collar on a striped pastel shirt with necktie

1922 men’s round club collar on a striped pastel shirt with necktie

Men also wore hats such as the felt fedora, classy Homburg or round bowler. In summer, it was the straw boater or Panama that topped most men’s heads. For men’s ’20s shoes, two-tone Oxfords were the latest and greatest fashion, although solid black or brown cap toes were equally common.

Mix and match 20s style tops and skirts

On the weekends, women’s clothing didn’t change. A long skirt, blouse and cardigan sweater was a common casual outfit.  An all-white outfit was required for playing tennis.

1920s tennis outfit tennis clothes 20s tennis dress ideas DIY at vintagedancer.com

Two 20s tennis outfit combinations- Learn more

Men’s casual clothes consisted of a similar look with plus four pants, tall argyle socks, sweater vest, dress shirt, and newsboy cap. If he played summer sports, he might have worn white trousers with a white sweater vest like most tennis stars did.

1920s men's golfing outfit : Argyle vest, knickers, tall socks, two tone shoes. Get this look at vintagedancer

Men’s golfing outfit, women wore similar sport clothes

1920s mens white tennis outfit clothes tennis sweater casual clothing 20s menswear at VintageDancer.com

Men’s tennis outfit – Learn more

Working class men didn’t have the luxury of custom suits. Instead, they wore overalls or blue jeans with a cotton button-down shirt and canvas coat. His hat of choice was the newsboy cap or a used felt hat. Learn more about men’s vintage workwear.

Men's Vintage Workwear- 1900-1940s- striped overalls, wool flannel shirt, denim jacket, cap, gloves and sturdy work boots.

Men’s Vintage Workwear- 1900-1940s- striped overalls, wool flannel shirt, denim jacket, cap, gloves and sturdy work boots.

Casual women’s clothing turned to menswear for inspiration. Ladies could wear tall argyle socks, knickers, button-down shirt and tie and newsboy cap just like the men.

Although pants were uncommon, by the end of the decade, Beach Pajamas were made of wide-leg palazzo style pants and matching top. Miss Fisher’s Murder Mysteries features beach pajamas quite often in the show’s costumes.

Take a look at these ’20s casual outfit ideas and these non-flapper outfit ideas.

Peaky blinders female gangster girl outfit or costume at VintageDancer.com
Tweed suit gangster girl
Miss Fisher wearing a white pant ensemble with kimono coat
Miss Fisher wearing a white pant ensemble with kimono coat

Not-flapper clothing outfits- the sporty girl look. Find it at vintagedancer.com
1920s Sportswear Outfit
1920s Vaudeville Showgirl. A non-flapper 1920s costume idea. Get the outfit at vintagedancer.com
1920s Vaudeville Showgirl

Amelia Earhart aviatrix aviator costume outfit idea 1920s not-flapper costume vintagedancer

Amelia Earhart aviatrix outfit

20s Party Clothes

Actress Blanche Sweet, 1920s beaded evening party dress

Actress Blanche Sweet, 1920s beaded evening party dress

Fancy 1920s dresses were sleeveless, shapeless, ankle- to knee-length slip gowns accented with beading, sequins, fringe, and some feathers. Rich jewel tones and soft pastels made the simplest of gowns look expensive. Add to that some lavish accessories such as a diamond tiara or headband, silk shawl, feather fan, long pearl necklace, and gold arm bangles, and women looked like silent movie stars!

1923 formal party dresses- no beading!

1923 formal party dresses- no beading, sequins or fringe!

While ladies lavished in fancy frocks, men found relief in slightly more comfortable dinner jackets (tuxedos) instead of stuffy tailcoats.

Many men cast off formal attire altogether and embraced the colorful life of striped suits, flashy neckties, Homburg hats, shoe spats, and gold-capped walking sticks.

Mens 1920s formal attire- Dinner jacket (tuxedo) or full white dress with tails

Men formal attire – Dinner jacket (tuxedo) or full white dress with tails

For a formal affair, getting a dose of fashion history (and a lot of pictures) will help you get in the right mindset for the night. Ladies, be sure to read about creating the iconic flapper costume look or getting really fancy with 1920s formal dresses.

1920s evening dress, flapper dresses, party dresses

Beading, feather boa, headbands galore! Shop evening dresses.

Outfit Ideas:

If you would rather look semi-formal, try 1920s party dresses for the ladies and 1920s suits for the gents. Knowing how popular The Great Gatsby is, men might also like to dress in all white like Jay Gatsby did, or perhaps as a bootlegger like the characters in Boardwalk Empire or Peaky Blinders.

Speaking of popular TV shows, ladies might enjoy the casual styles of Miss Fisher’s Murder Mysteries or the sophisticated looks of Downton Abbey (and for gents, too).

Need cheap Gatsby or flapper costumes? We have our favorite 20s costume here. For the gentlemen, look at these ’20s men’s costumes.

1920s flapper costume how to dress

1920s Flapper Costume Guide– Pin This!

Where to Shop – Ladies

I am an avid window shopper and thrift store addict. Whatever your style and budget, there is something that can work for you, found locally or online. Let’s start with the cheapest and move up in luxury. The stores I include here are local to me (Reno, Nevada), but regardless of where you live, you can probably find these or similar stores to shop at.

Thrift Stores

make a 1920s dress

Up-cycled Thrift 1920s Dress

Finding a 1920s style dress in a thrift store is fairly easy. Look for a long to knee-length straight-cut dress. A drop waist will also work (where the line is around your hips or below, nothing above your navel). Any color will do, even small pattern prints.

Anything with beading, sequins, metallic thread, velvet, ruffled skirts, tiered layers, crochet, and even lace will be best for the party clothes. If it has sleeves, you can remove them for an evening affair or layer with a fringe shawl or lightweight evening jacket.

Many ’80s bead/sequin dresses can look fairly ’20s. Just remove any shoulder pads if you can. I recently put together ten thrift store 20s outfits  and 10 Downton Abbey inspired clothes here for some inspiration.

For you non-dress wearing gals, I have these ideas for casual/menswear ’20s and ’30s ladies outfits.

Ten 20s outfit ideas. DIY casual to fancy ladies clothing

Ten 20s outfit ideas. DIY casual to fancy ladies clothing.

Sew a Dress

One-Hour Dress eBook review

One-Hour Dress eBook

Sewing a 1920s outfit is an affordable option for many, although I usually spend more on a pattern, fabric, and trim than I would if I bought ready-made. Sewing from a 1920s vintage reproduction pattern will give you the most accurate look. Choosing fabrics in popular ’20s colors is the next step.

If you need inspiration, look at a few of my sewing projects: The One Hour Dress, the day/house dress, and easy hat decorating.

New Dresses (mid price)

As of 2020, many dresses are inspired by the late 1920s/1930s version of the 1970s dress. Many of these floral, wrap top, tiered, and two piece jacket dresses look similar enough to 1920s dresses. You may only need to add a belt or 20s accessories to complete the look. Read this article for examples.

Mature women and women with curves have some great choices in the women’s dress areas, usually in waist-less (tunic), not drop waist styles. Long column-shaped gowns are good pieces to start with. Layering with a shawl or jacket, adding a belt to sash to pull in the waist slightly, and adding long necklaces will give the body the tallness the ’20s silhouette demanded.

There are also cheap Halloween flapper costume dresses available year-round online or in Halloween costume stores in October. Cheap costumes are terribly inaccurate (too much fringe, too short, too figure-hugging) but the accessories are usually nice enough. Splurge on the dress, save on the accessories!

Cheap $30-150 dresses

Unique Vintage’s sale section has bargains on beautiful flapper dresses for under $100.  Long and short flapper dresses, elegant evening gowns and some daytime/ simple ’20s dresses.

1920s flapper dresses

Flapper dresses at Unique Vintage

Amazon – Hit or miss on authenticity, Amazon now has a number of day and evening style dresses. Watch the sizing and shipping time.  When in doubt, select only items available for Prime shipping and order one dress size up. 1920s clothes fit loose, not curve-hugging. You might also want to order a longer slip.

Quality brands are also on Amazon. I like the tiered dresses with an optional jacket from S.L. Fashions and the hanky hem dresses by J. Kara. Both brands have several other dresses like feel like the 20s without a literal interpretation. They also come in plus sizes.

1920s S.L. Fashions tiered dress in grey, blue teal or purple
S.L. Fashions tiered dress in grey, black, blue teal or purple
1920s J. Kara hanky hem dress
J. Kara hanky hem dress

Daytime dresses without all the sparkle and fringe are usually more affordable. Simple drop waist cotton dresses or white tea party dresses are ideal for casual, summer tea parties, and outdoor events. They usually have sleeves and longer hems which make them more comfortable for mature women. Prices range from $20 to $400 depending on the brand. Shop daytime dresses here.

Floral 20s style tea dress

My floral ’20s style tea dress from Marycrafts on Amazon

Etsy.com is a wonderful marketplace to find vintage 20s dresses as well as handmade 20s inspired dresses and even some upcycled modern dresses. We like LaVieDelight’s authentic 20s designs priced around $130. French designer Folded Roses also makes interesting 20s dresses with a European flair. Don’t forget about 1980s drop waist vintage dresses since they were inspired by the ’20s.

1920s sleevless tea dress by LaVieDelight on Etsy

1920s sleeveless tea dress by LaVieDelight on Etsy

eBay is another possible source of pre-owned 20s style dresses. My sister has good luck buying used Sue Wong evening dresses for a fraction of the original cost.

Luxury Dresses ($200 and up)

Macy’s, Dillard’s or Nordstrom – In the formal section they have brands Patra, Papell, and Pisarro Nights that all have the most beautiful beaded and sequin gowns in a wide range of sizes. I usually shop their online selection, but you can find them locally, too. Komarov is a great brand for those that don’t want a beaded dress.

Pisarro Nights beaded gown at Nordstrom.

Nataya Brand via Wardrobe Shop – I LOVE Nataya brand dresses for a romantic 1920s look without all the bling. You probably won’t find these locally, but it is safe to order a few online and return any that don’t work for you. The website now carries other brands of beautiful beaded dresses and accessories.

Best seller! Nataya '20s dress in many colors and plus sizes

Best seller! Nataya ’20s dress in many colors and plus sizes

Plus Size shoppers look here for many beaded or daytime dresses in sizes up to 4XL. Petite women will appreciate my advice on what brands work best for short figures.

1920s plus size dresses, Great Gatsby, Downton Abbey, Miss Fishers Dresses

1920s Plus Size Dresses- Shop now.

UK Shoppers look here for 1920s dresses and shoes near you. In the AU / NZ, try this 20s dress page.

1920s  Style Jewelry

1920s Style Jewelry for Sale. learn and history and shop for new costume jewelry at VintageDancer.com

1920s Style Jewelry for Sale

Besides the classic long pearl necklace, long faceted bead necklaces, tassel necklaces, short bib necklaces, and drop earrings to match are all jewelry styles to consider.  I prefer cheap costume jewelry to pricey antique pieces. Some of the best jewelry I find is at the grocery store, Target, ICING, etc.

Read more about 1920s jewelry styles here.

20s headband, flapper headband

20s headband

A headband or other hair decoration is a must-have piece of jewelry for a 1920s evening affair. They were made of beads or crystals and even strings of pearls wrapped around the head. They were often worn around the forehead, too. Some women went as far as to wear a tiara. Shop here for 1920s style hair accessories.

For daywear, consider a cloche hat or similar 1920s hat style.

 

1920s Miss Fisher Murder Mysteries Style Hats

1920s style hats for you- Shop hats

Other Accessories: Parasol, round sunglasses, cigarette holder, flask, stockings, short gloves and handbag.

For evenings: Feather boa and hand fan, long gloves, backseam stockings, makeup, evening coat/fur wrap.

1920s accessories: hat, headband, pearl necklace, drop earrings, sunglasses, cigarette holder, feather fan, parasol, feather boa, flask, purse, gloves, and makeup. Shop and learn at VintageDancer

1920s accessories

1920s Style Shoes

Shop all brands of 1920s style shoes here. You can also find flat T-strap shoes for those who can’t wear heels.

New 20s shoes. Heels, oxfords, flats, and sport shoes

New 20s shoes. Heels, oxfords, flats, and sport shoes

Pretty much any shoe store in your town will have something that can work as a 1920s shoe – even Footwear Etc, DSW Shoes, and Target. Look for T-strap or Mary Jane shoes in black, gold or silver with or without some bling on them. Avoid open-toe sandals or wedge heels if you want to be authentic. 1920s shoes had a mid-heel that was sturdy, not too thin, and came with straps — one, two or many. Basic heeled pumps were also in style, so if you already have some in your closet, by all means, wear them. For daywear, look at walking Oxfords with a low heel.

Zappos – I enjoy the online selection of 1920s style shoe at Zappos. Some best sellers are Rockport Cobb Hill Shayla (Oxford) which are great for daywear.

Amazon – In a pinch, Amazon has some cheap 1920s style shoes. Give yourself plenty of time to wear them in before dancing all night.

Dance Shoes – T-strap and Mary Jane “Character” shoes are made for dancing. Your feet will thank you.

 More Ladies’ Outfit Ideas

  • Read 10 easy 1920s costume ideas that can be put together from things you already own. Day and evening dresses, casual clothing, gangster girls, garden party, DIY, thrifted and more.
  • How to Dress like a 1920s Flapper – Love the iconic flapper girl costume? Read this article for tips on staying authentic yet fun!
  • Ten Downton Abbey Costume Ideas – Looks inspired by the 1920s costumes in the Downton Abbey TV series. Day, sporty, summer and winter looks.
  • One Hour Dress Tips and Reviews – Sew a simple dress in just 2 hours. See many examples of how to adapt this vintage 1924 pattern into day and evening looks. This article on accessorizing a plain dress will help, too.
  • 1920s Casual Outfits – When you don’t want to be a flapper, choose a casual look instead. This guide will give you ideas.
  • Non-Flapper Outfit Ideas – Even more non-flapper dressy to casual outfit ideas.
  • 20s Costumes – cheaper Halloween costumes are affordable and fun!
  • More articles on 1920s fashion history.

1920s Men’s Clothes

A tuxedo will be your best formal choice for a classy event. Choose a standard black notch lapel tuxedo jacket with flat front tuxedo pants. A white button-down shirt (not a pleated tuxedo shirt) will look good underneath. A white or black vest is optional and a good choice if you want to take off your jacket. Add a white or black bow tie and a snazzy pair of cufflinks. A top hat will take you to new heights, but isn’t necessary (and proper etiquette says it is to be removed inside). Read this guide to 1920s formalwear.

1920s tuxedo men black tie evening formalwear dinner jacket pin at VintageDancer

1920s Tuxedo Guide

You can rent a tux from almost any department store, wedding shop or men’s clothing store (they all come from the same source). Better yet, buy a good tuxedo at Jos. A Bank. They have them in stock and will make the necessary alterations.

For a more casual look, you could wear high rise classic fit pants with a vest and shirt. For the early ’20s, workwear, or casual high rise pant, look at Historical Emporium.

Men's casual vintage inspired 20s look

Casual Vintage Inspired ’20s Look

Oscar has lucked out a few times with suits by Perry Ellis. They tend to be more trendy and slim fitting, which is good for an early ’20s look. Modern vintage inspired suits focus on patterns such as stripes, plaid and tweed along with matching vests! Complete the outfit with two tone lace up shoes, bow ties, vests, pocket squares, and suspenders for that extra 1920s dapper style.

1920s mens costumes: A striped suit is great 1920s style. Add straw boater hat and two tone shoes for complete bootlegger look. VintageDancer.com

Striped Suit for a 1920s Look

You can make an entire look from the suits, vests, shirts, shoes, ties, and sometimes hats from multiple online shops. Men’s USA features all kinds of cheaper suits. I like their wide fit fashion suits with big stripes for a late ’20s Gangster look.

For UK shoppers, look at these 1920s men’s clothes.

Peaky Blinders outfit costume, Thomas Shelby, gangster. Get the look at VintageDancer.com

Peaky Blinders outfit

 

1920s Style Men’s Suits

1920s mens fashion guide. Day and evening clothing. Learn more at VintageDancer.com/1920s

Day and Evening Men’s Clothing Guide.

Thrift Stores – Sometimes you can find tuxedos, but usually thrift stores will have some good used suits. Look for stripes, checks, and plaids with a definite pattern — subtle was not in style. Grey, brown and dark blue are the best colors, although if you want a summer look try white, ivory or pastel colors. 1920s suits were fitted and usually three pieces with a matching or similar shade of vest. Add a bow tie or necktie in diagonal stripes, paisley, or small repeating patterns and a pocket square that matches at least one color in the tie.

A men’s dress shirt had a detachable white collar on a striped, colored shirt. You won’t find detachable collars anymore, but a white collared shirt is trendy right now. A white dress shirt or solid color is fine, too, but the striped shirts with white cuffs and collar really look vintage! Shop 1920s style men’s shirts here.

You could also go for an informal look with just pants, suspenders and a vest, or a sporting golf look using pants or knickers and an argyle sweater or sweater vest.

Here are some more 1920s costume ideas for men:

 

Click to learn how to create 7 different 1920s men's looks.

Click to learn how to create 7 different 1920s men’s looks.

1920s Men’s Hats

1920s men's hats at vintagedancer.com

1920s Men’s Hat Styles

Besides the formal top hat, most men went for felt hats in winter and straw hats in summer. Consider the center dent fedora, the round bowler or derby, or the unique Homburg for felt hats. The classy straw Panama or round crown Boater or Skimmer are great for summer. The casual flat cap, AKA newsboy cap, is versatile year round. Fedoras are classic, too, although most modern Fedoras have very narrow brims. 1920s fedoras had wide brims and tall crowns. Your best bet is to buy a hat online. Read more about 1920s men’s hat styles.

1920s Style Men’s Shoes

1920s men's shoe styles

1920s Men’s Shoe Styles- Shop Shoes

DSW Shoes, Footwear Etc, Off Broadway Shoes, any men’s shoe department store — they all have some basic lace up Oxfords and wingtips (what you would wear to the office). 1920s shoes were either black or rusty brown leather Oxfords with a cap toe or wingtip design. Brown and white, and grey and white were also common but less formal. Wear these with a brown or grey striped suits, not with a tuxedo.

Formal shoes were shiny black slip on or lace up shoes. Lace up boots were the most casual or working class shoe. Here are some online shoe options you can also find locally:

1920s Men’s Accessories

1920s mesn ties

1920 Ties as seen in Boardwalk Empire

A necktie or bow tie is needed for all but the casual looks. Paisley, small patterns and wide stripes were all common in the 1920s. They were quite colorful– never bland choices. Mustard yellow, burnt orange, red, gas flame blue, pink, etc. Shop 1920s style neckties here.

A pocket square was neatly folded into the suit coat. It did not usually match the necktie, but coordinated with at least one color in it. For example, a gold, navy and maroon paisley tie may have a gold pocket square with it. It’s a little detail that makes a big difference.

Gloves are a nice accessory as well, although hard to find in warm weather. White gloves are needed with formal suits, brown or grey leather gloves with semi-formal business suits.

More help:

I am just an email away to help you with your costume needs. Contact me here, and I will get back to you quickly.

debbie
We are Debbie and Oscar, your guides to dressing up like decades past. We are here to help you find clothing online and learn about vintage fashions as worn by everyday people, just like you. Need help with your outfit? Ask us anytime.
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Authentic 1920s Makeup Tutorial »

Comments

  1. Emmy says

    November 28, 2017 at 8:53 am

    What about pantsuits/jumpsuits?

    • VintageDancer says

      November 28, 2017 at 2:54 pm

      The only type of playsuits or pantsuits were Beach Pajamas. They were a very late ’20s trend that took off in the 1930s. The designs were inspired by Asian pajamas/lounge-wear. They were mostly only worn at home by the rich or to a beach side vacation. I have an article about them here: https://vintagedancer.com/1930s/vintage-wide-leg-pants-history/

  2. Carolyn Collins says

    February 17, 2017 at 9:18 am

    I am going to a 20’s theme wedding. They are not wanting Great Gadsbys style. What formal wear did women wear who were not necessarily rich?

    • VintageDancer says

      February 17, 2017 at 11:57 am

      An afternoon dress with elevated material like silk, satin or chiffon and pretty embroidery or a brooch was what most women could afford to wear in the evenings as well. This article should help: https://vintagedancer.com/1920s/1920s-afternoon-dresses/

  3. Jo Richardson says

    February 11, 2017 at 5:04 pm

    How did female gangsters or female mob bosses dress in the 1920’s?

    • VintageDancer says

      February 11, 2017 at 5:11 pm

      They dressed like any (usually wealthy) woman did in the 1920s. There wasn’t anything specific about them, just like male gangsters. Normal nice dresses with coordinated accessories for those who could afford them. Simple dresses or blouse and skirts for those less well off.

  4. Nancy says

    January 14, 2017 at 5:08 pm

    Did women wear pants in the 1920s if so, what style.

    • VintageDancer says

      January 14, 2017 at 5:11 pm

      Yes. Here is the article all about womens pants https://vintagedancer.com/1920s/did-women-wear-pants/

  5. bella lauren says

    October 5, 2016 at 4:08 am

    I love this all 1920s collection of both men and women and it’s really unique.This blog is quite interesting and helpful for vintage bloggers

  6. Areania says

    April 13, 2016 at 6:43 am

    So if you were a girl but wanting to wear a suit, how exactly would you put that outfit together?

    • VintageDancer says

      April 13, 2016 at 9:31 am

      You would put your suit together almost the same way. The difference being in the cut of the clothes for a slightly more feminine look. Wide leg pants, white shirt, suit coat, vest, black necktie, bowler hat, oxford shoes. You could buy all men’s clothes and wear them as is or have them tailored a bit more to your shape such as taking in the waist on the coat and vest and tapering the legs around hips to the ankle. Search for pictures of women in pants and you’ll see more ideas of how women put together their looks.

  7. Barbara says

    April 17, 2015 at 12:36 pm

    Did men wear ruffled tux shirts in the 20’s?

    • Debbie Sessions says

      April 17, 2015 at 12:42 pm

      Just the flat front shirts.

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